Archives - 2001
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Collingwood, Ontario Our preparations are nearing the end here in Collingwood but lots of work ahead in Fort Lauderdale. After a visit to family in Vancouver we'll be leaving here the beginning of January. Our boat 'Solara' is in a boatyard in Fort Lauderdale ready to be rigged (mast, stays and spreaders) and will be ready for our arrival at the Cabo Rico wharf where we will live until ready to leave, supplies etc. on board. Looking out at the snowy, windy desolate scene from our Georgian Bay windows we look forward to sunshine and warm winds (we hope). Our car in Florida will be packed up by Carolyn, our daughter, who will be available later in Toronto to personally report our progress. Next destination, February, hopefully Key West and Cuba. |
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Fort Lauderdale, Florida Leaving the cold snowy regions north of Toronto and driving south is an interesting experience. But then it is exciting to first see palm trees (although planted) near the highway. As many of you know the long flat boring drive on 95 takes forever especially all the way to Fort Lauderdale. But, we are now here where it is warm (23ºC) and sunny right now. Cabo Rico have a few finishing touches to work on, but the boat looks wonderful, beautiful teak throughout, and we are impatient to move in. After discussing many of the radio and electronic features with a Dr. John we have much to learn and practice. He reminded me of professors who know so much and expect you to pick up their knowledge of years in a few hours. We also had to decide the type of lettering that will be used to paint the boat's name on the hull. It's like buying a new house with all the decisions needed. We're buying out "West Marine", a boat supply store, to complete the outfitting. Whoever said that having a boat is like filling a hole in the ocean was right on the mark. Next, our first ride on the boat on Friday to set the compass.
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Fort Lauderdale, Florida Gosh it's February- where has the time gone? We are still tied up to a dock behind the Cabo Rico office being commissioned. What have they done so far? Installed our wind generator; installed our self steering wind vane; refitted the main sail; added a dodger and bimini (to protect us from the rain and sun); brought our new outboard and dinghy etc. I'll stop here so you won't get too bored. After Carolyn left with the car we went by foot ( no public transportation to speak of) and after a few days rented a car again. The shops are too far apart. We've met many people who are working on our boat just to make sure we leave Florida in a well-commissioned boat. There is Dr. John who set us up with "Sea Mail", weatherfax and radar but who hasn't explained it very well to us and we are still learning. And Miles who made sure our GPS connected with our computer and cockpit. There is Dave, the one we rely on the most, who oversees it all. And Tony, who knows a lot about lines, rigging, hardware, and sailing, but who leaves a mess wherever he goes and won't take off his shoes. There is Robert, a young experienced man who is anxious to learn and is familiar around boats, who gets all the dirty work to do. He originally came from Calgary and misses his wife and 2 year old who are in Mexico. Oh, yes then we have Bob, who made our canvas accessories and hasn't finished yet, and finally the odd other person depending on the work. There is a great staff here and any problems or potential ones usually get corrected as soon as possible! Dave know these boats and tries to teach us two all we should know but we expect we will be learning continually. No TV, no recreational reading, no games etc. yet. Last week we took the boat out with Dave to try the rigging. It started out slow as the channel we were in was at low tide and the boat was touching bottom. The boat had to be angled by pulling on the halyard from the top of the mast and we got out into the middle of the channel. As we got out into the intercoastal waterway to go out into the open water Dave felt that the propeller was acting up and sent Al overboard to see if we were caught on a plastic bag. We happened to be outside the waters of the filtration plant. No plastic bag but we got a new propeller that worked better with our engine. We kidded Dave that he does that to all new boat owners. Anyway we're still here and not too mobile as yet. We're expecting to try our new dingy in the canals to get used to it. I'm sitting at the beach on a most beautiful day with great wind for sailing. The beach here goes on for miles with no hotels to interrupt the view. Out in the water there are many sailboats, fishing boats, cruise ships, freighters, and those awful seadoos. The parrots above me just got scared away by a large raptor and I'm just about to finish this journal for the moment. Next week we may be heading for Key West with stops along the way. We might even make the Miami boat show where this all began a year ago. The end for now.
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Miami, Florida It's been awhile since I've written. We finally left Fort Lauderdale on Sunday February 11th. We were anxious that everything would go well with us running the show. Our dinghy had to be hauled up on deck with a large sling lifted by a halyard attached to the mast. It is very heavy and must weigh over 100 lb. With some maneuvering we got it centered on the foredeck and the engine had been lifted up by a pulley to its secure place on the stern. Then, we had to be sure we were ready to leave early as it would take a good part of the day and into unknown territory of Miami harbour. Up at 5:30 and away at 7:30. I hope that it's not the case every time we go to a new destination. Al can be a real crank when it comes to being captain. That is the hazard of taking full responsibility for such a craft as ours. Out in the Atlantic we encountered good 10-15 knots which were easy to handle. I'm still having trouble keeping the boat into the wind so the main sail can be raised. I'm used to a rudder and find a wheel needs a different touch. The sail has to be raised carefully so as to not get tangled in the lazy jacks (used to keep the sail straight when being lowered or raised). When all the sails were up we made good time along the coast of Florida. All the way down to Miami you can see high rises, beaches, hotels , etc. but no one swimming yet. As one approaches Miami there is a large channel, well marked, that is used for all boats coming and going. The water is churned up considerably by all the boats, especially on a Sunday afternoon. Then there were many seadoos running back and forth in the channel. All the yahoos were out in their power boats as well. We followed the markings and approached the ICW that would keep us in a channel, since on both sides of the markings the water was shallow in places (2-3') and we need at least 6'. In fact we touched mud in one place and had to churn our way out just before we needed to turn sharply south. It was midafternoon by then and we had to find an anchorage which we did on Biscayne Bay, a few 100 yards off a busy beach and just near the entrance to another channel going out to the Atlantic. The yahoos were there too and zipped their craft just by our boat which made it seem that we were in the ocean again. After collapsing, eating dinner and just winding down we got into bed early. Up early, to bed early, that is the life of a boater. After one more night in the open anchorage we moved to a mooring on the north side of the Rickenbacher causeway where we had access to showers and laundry and where we could get land transport from the dinghy dock. Here we see the beautiful skyline of Miami and Sunday night there was a splendid fireworks display. There is always work to be done on a boat and we weren't free from that. Thursday was the day we went to the Miami Boat Show. We found the bus which ran just outside our marina road. For $1.40 for two we got to the show, compared to $20 by cab. Hey, when you're retired you find the cheaper way. The bus driver had trouble believing Al deserved senior rates. The boat show answered some questions we had concerning many of out equipment. We're continuing to muddle through. After topping our diesel fuel, gas for the dinghy motor, water for our 3 tanks, and doing laundry we were ready to head further south. Our dinghy is very important. It is an Avon dinghy, 10', with a 10 hp motor, but must be locked everywhere we leave it. On Saturday we were pleasantly surprised to find Jack and Audrey Pady looking for us near our marina. They found out where we were from the Cabo Rico personnel at the boat show and took a chance that we hadn't left yet. We had a good visit and caught up with all the news. Early to bed again and up for an early start Sunday. Unfortunately our running light didn't work and had to wait for the sun rise. Carefully out Biscayne Bay and the Biscayne Channel. You have to stay within the markers with our 6' draft as it becomes 2-3' on both sides. The area is called Stiltsville because houses were built on stilts many years ago and people still live in them. They keep their boats underneath their houses. The owners are fighting to stay there. Our sail down started smoothly but the wind was right on our back and many jibes had to be done. W also had to keep in a narrow channel because all around are reefs and shoals. The north wind brings changes and we experienced them later on our sail. Winds came up near 20 knots and later in the evening went up to 30k. We stopped at Rodriquez Key, a little island east of Key Largo with anchorage somewhat sheltered from the wind but also away from some of the choppy waves. We were still jumping back and forth from the high winds. Since we were well grounded we decided to stay there until the winds subsided . So rock and roll we sit here for an extra night. Thanks to everybody for sending messages to us through our hot line alpeters@canada.com or out seamail CFG8932 which you will find on my message board. Talk to you soon. |
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Key West, Florida As you can see we have moved down the coast since my last note. We stopped at Bahia Honda, Knight Key at Marathon and here. The first day after the strong winds the waves were extra high but the winds were acceptable. Just after Marathon there was little wind and we had to motor much of the way. Key West is a unique place and very touristy as well. After almost a week we needed a marina and one gave us the best that they could, considering every place is full, which is a concrete pier beside the marina but not quite part of it although we have some facilities. So we are here for a few days. If I repeat something it's because I forget where I left off in Key West. Getting to Key west meant stopping a few times on the way. In Marathon at Knight's Key and further to Bahia Honda, a pretty little shelter with a public beach nearby. The only drawback was the closeness of #1 on a causeway nearby. We were having problems with our windlass and needed some advice in Key West. As you go further south and west the colours in the water changes to many hues due to the reefs which are scattered about the deep water. We entered KW at the southern most point past the naval base where the British ship, the Sheffield, was visiting. Conch marina offered a temporary place just outside their marina on a cement pier. Not the best but better than nothing which was our other choice. It gave us showers, toilets and shore power if nothing else and access to the best part of KW for sightseeing. I looked up the Schmidas who live there now and we had a good visit and they very kindly made us most welcome, introducing us to their friends and having us for dinner. It was nice to be in a home once again. Joanna and Walt were Alpine Club members at one time but left for KW 6 years ago. Joanna and Walter Schmida live here and have been extremely hospitable to us, where we had the pleasure of a home cooked meal last night. The running light got fixed (a pinched wire) and we started running our water maker for future use. We hope to leave for Cuba in a couple of days. So I'll try to keep you informed. |
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Key West, Florida / Maria Hemingway, Cuba Key West is very different from anything we know from Florida. It is a centre of tourism, very charming, very expensive, and full of interesting history. We got as much done as we could to ready the boat for the crossing to Cuba including a shopping excursion to last several months. The sail to Cuba would be our first overnight and we picked a good gentle breeze from the SE. Instead of going to the Dry Tortugas first we decided to sail straight south compensating for the Gulf Stream which carries one further east then you wish to be. Sailing at night has many interesting features. The water seems so much closer. The sounds are accentuated, the rigging creaks loudly, the water in the tanks swish around, and the water going by your boat seems like Niagara Falls. We took 2 hours shifts, and since the sailing was all in the same direction we could use the auto helm. You keep the sails trimmed, watch for any strange lights, and make sure you keep on course. One can also see millions of stars, watch a red crescent moon sink down in the horizon and know there is no one near you for miles. There was a call on our VHF some time after we had started asking what kind of boat were we and how fast were we going. Apparently they were much heavier and only going one or two knots with their engine on. It made us feel better about our ability to go fast. (6 knots). We arrived in Maria Hemingway in the morning after following the coastline west . We saw the lights of the country long before morning. On arrival a boat must stop at the Guardia to be officially entered into Cuba. It took two hours. First the medical man who looked through our papers and then sprayed the boat for I don't know what. Then a man put on fins and snorkel and dove down under out boat to look at the hull. Why? Next we had a man who brought his dog who sniffed all around like in an airport. The two women from Agriculture looked through all our food stuff and even asked me to cook the eggs I had brought so as not to contaminate. They were very interested in all our fresh food which wasn't much. Diving down into my fridge. More paper work. Customs came. More paper work. Did we have any extra batteries we could give her. Then immigration. More paper work. Then guardia in uniform with the coast guard attending who looked through everything we had, going through all our cupboards and under seats etc. They were polite and friendly but official and we tried to be as well and using our Spanish as much as possible helped. Finally we were officially entered but every time we have to go to a new port we must check in and out which influences our schedule.
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Cayo Largo, Cuba The details will have to go. We have been on the move since Marina Hemingway jumping from one small anchorage to another in mostly remote locations like Bahia Honda where the Guardia has to come out in their boat to check you in and Cayo Levisa a snorkeling centre where the tourists are brought over on large power boats from the mainland. And the small town Esperanza who has a greeting committee of one and where you can arrange a dinner in her private home and afterwards write your name on her wall along with hundreds of others. We traded a few things with her and she gave me some meager fresh produce. From there we found a small anchorage away from the rougher water where we had to come in at night using our GPS. Now we could use the inland waterway protected somewhat by reefs stopping at more anchorages and seeing a soul just the birds and vegetation. We left a place just away from a town called le Fe about 2am when the winds were favourable and sailed to Cayo Lena just at the west end of Cuba. The winds picked up to over 20K just before our next stop and we had to stay there for awhile to wait out the weather.
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Port Antonio, Jamaica Next journal entry - We're nearing the end of our Cuban trip. There was so much to take in and remember. Here are some of our impressions and facts we've gathered on our trip: the country is beautiful and diverse; pristine beaches, beautiful water of many shades of blue; remote anchorages where you see no one for days except for a few fishermen; the towns we saw Nueva Gerona, Cienfeugas, Manzanillo, were all tired looking and bedraggled like a grand lady trying her best to look good; transportation by horse and cart, bicycle, and pedal cabs are the norm; the old grand buildings showed signs of past glory but are now faded and peeling; the ordinary Cuban is friendly and helpful to strangers when you need it but they suffer from lack of everything. We saw lineups everywhere - to wait your turn to go into a store - to buy ice-cream when it arrives periodically -to buy bread when it's available - to go into a bank. The fishermen can't sell their fish locally. It's all taken by the government and exported. The lobster are being caught constantly but the amount of lobster is half what it used to be. If a Cuban wants fish he has to fish for himself. To buy eggs I sometimes had to get them illegally through a government restaurant. The markets have meager supplies: Limes, peppers, sometimes tomatoes, onions, cabbages, garlic mainly but not always at the same time. Even though all this sounds negative we are glad to have been there and experienced the country and its people. They love their music and know how to have fun. In the afternoons they sit around and watch soap operas in the heat of the day. We were ready to move on and are now in Jamaica. The town of Port Antonio is pleasant and we feel secure everywhere we go. At least I can provision properly before we head east into the prevailing winds and Puerto Rico. All the restaurants serve chicken and rice if that's to your liking. And we have finally found an internet and not have to use our seamail which is not always reliable. |
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Port Antonio, Jamaica Easter Sunday - On the way to Jamaica the winds died and we had to motor south. So much for rounding Cabo Cruz, supposedly a difficult sail. On my night watch I listened to Reggae, a good introduction to Jamaica. We pulled into Port Antonio in the afternoon of the second day and found one marina which answered our call on the VHF, directing us to a spot right in front of their bar. Of course, the friendly boat boys talked us into having the boat washed and the chrome cleaned. They did a great job. The boat hadn't been touched for weeks and it was covered in salt since it hadn't rained in Cuba since we had arrived early in March. We had a good week here, exploring the town, provisioning, eating out (mostly chicken and rice), meeting other boaters, finding an e-mail at the library etc. Our favourite place was Anna Banana further down the shore by taxi ($2 US), Compared to Cuba prices are so much higher. We were waiting for better weather and had a good 2 days of stormy rains before leaving. Sunday at Port Antonio was a disaster when 4 of us took a rafting trip on the Rio Grande starting up the mountain near our marina. The river was high and swift that day and really should have been closed for trips, but our guide hadn't gone through the proper channels and wanted to make more money on the side. The rafts were flimsy affairs made of bamboo fastened with wire. Fine for a calm day on the river. To make a long story short Al and I tipped off twice and lost everything we had including a camera and worse I almost drowned both times: once, getting caught beneath the turned-over raft, and the second time being swept down the river and not able to reach shore due to the swift current and deep water. After being rescued by Al and our friend we then had to climb the mountain to reach the road. An unforgettable experience! Monday night 8 of us had a farewell party since many of us were going separate ways. "To the Moon" would keep in touch every day to monitor our progress across the windward passage. |
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Leaving Port Antonio, Jamaica Leaving Port Antonio we knew that we'd be out 'there' for several days. One can't go straight if one wants to sail. So, we moved north and south to reach as far east as we could. It took a long time to finally see the west end of Haiti but after two days there it was. The weather behaved well until we were in the large bay heading for the Dominican Republic border. On the third day the winds came up and we were experiencing winds up to 30K and high waves. Our boat sailed very well in reduced sail but we were taking in a lot of water through many places we thought we had sealed such as through the dorads (air vents) and some small hatches which weren't shut properly . The waves covered our boat at the bow and made its way to the cockpit many times. We had lost our raingear in Jamaica so Al spent more time in the uncomfortable seat getting wetter and wetter. After all day in this we had to motor around the Isla de Beata ( south point of the DR). By this time we were rounding the point and I was anxious to reach some kind of harbour.
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To Boca Chica: Choosing the south passage by Isla Beata took longer but with the strong easterly winds and big waves we couldn't go through the quicker way. It took through the morning to pass across the northern channel and head up the coast. The current was so strong and the waves almost hid us from view. The SW coast of the Dominican Republic is very dry and desolate with no one living there except for a few fishing villages. Although we were going out of our way we had to go to a port of entry which was Bayahonda and I was ready to recover from a week 'out there'. Bayahonda is not a great port but the officials are friendly and not so officious as in other places. The surge is not good there and our boat rocked constantly. We were asked to anchor close by and not the more sheltered spot marked in our guidebook. The officials came out with Bill in an old fishing boat. Bill was a self-appointed interpreter of sorts who called me Mama. Al had to have 4 diesel tanks filled at a local garage in town. He came back with 2 others and Bill on two motorcycles carrying the 4 5-gallons tanks of fuel. He said it was more scary than our rafting trip. Spent the day washing the inside of the boat of salty water and couldn't provision as it was Labour Day weekend
(May 1). Left Tuesday after our new 'despacho' was delivered early in the morning. We need a despacho to enter a new port
just as in Cuba. Had a lovely sail east to Salinas to anchor for the night. After arriving
late afternoon and dropping anchor the young official wouldn't let us stay as our 'despacho' stated Boca Chica and not Salinas which
was a lovely sheltered harbour occupied by private homes and a yacht club. So off we went for an overnighter
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To Boca Chica continued: (May 2) The winds came up about 4 in the morning and the seas were high again as we approached the harbour. We had seen lots of freighters during the night so had to keep alert on our watches. The shoals appeared to cover the entrance to the harbour but as one got closer you could see a marked channel directing us into the marina. Boca Chica marina is private which means they don't answer their VHF, meaning we had to anchor nearby with many other boats. Later we were able to arrange a slip at the office and spent the week basically having the facilities to ourselves. Most of the boats here are power boats owned by wealthy Dominicans who hire help to keep their boats clean and in working order. Thursday we took a local boat into Boca Chica which is very touristy and full of hotels. There is a lovely beach lined with restaurants and bars plus numerous hawkers pushing their wares. We found a cyber cafe and a chance to call home and arrange with Carolyn to send mail via FedEx to our marina. Our friends from "To The Moon" arrived and we had a good visit catching up on our news and passages. Saturday was very windy producing a very rainy afternoon and giving us time to spend working on the boat. The local 'taxis' are motor scooters which we weren't prepared to try after Al's experience in Bayahonda. This meant making sure the local bus could drop us off nearby, which didn't always happen. We were prepared to leave soon not being too enamoured with the DR. Garbage lines the roads and sanitation could be better. The people around Boca Chica are very pushy towards tourists but that is probably common in resort areas. At the marina we had very friendly staff and were treated well. The day we left the authorities kept Al waiting 2 hours which put him in a foul mood. We finally got away at 10:30 AM and prepared to be out for 3-4 days until Ponce, Puerto Rico after crossing the Mona Passage.
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To Puerto Rico: We tried to sail most of the way tacking north and south in order to go east. By going further south we avoided the worse of the Mona Passage with its choppy waves and currents which tend to make sailing difficult. Unfortunately, some motoring had to be done to arrive in Ponce during the daylight hours. We followed the coastline with its beautiful rugged mountains on the south side. All in all it took 2 days and 2 nights to get there from Bocha Chica. Ponce was another private yacht club and we wangled a spot amongst large power boats. We spent a week there with a rented car in order to do errands that were only possible in US territory. Across the small bay from the marina the town had built a beautiful boardwalk with bars and restaurants. Lots of noise and music to put us to sleep until 3 o'clock. Saturday we drove inland to Farajaro and West Marine to buy their store out. It took just over 2 hours to cross to the northeast part of the country. The scenery was beautiful with its mountains and valleys. Sunday was Mother's Day. Everything was closed as the Puerto Ricans celebrate this day with a vengeance. The only stores open were flower shops for mothers. Provisioning was great here. Just like in the US. They even had a Cosco-like store. Al wanted lots of canned chili when I wasn't around as it was all he could eat as long as there was a working can opener. Thursday we left Ponce early to try to do several days to Martinique across the Caribbean. Once out the autopilot was acting up and the compass as well. I convinced Al to turn back to Puerto Rico and get it looked at. So here we were changing our plans which meant we would be heading toward the Leeward Islands a different way.
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Salinas, Puerto Rico: After heaving to in order to arrive in daylight we entered a lovely sheltered bay with many anchored boats coming and going after a few days stay. There were some who planned to be there for hurricane season as it is a good hole for that. We arranged to have a good electronics man to see about our problem but had to wait until Tuesday. Saturday we walked the mile into town in hot humid weather to find an internet cafe. It turned out the owner would only give us an hour as he was teaching a class that day. Al took 55 minutes and gave me 5 to check our web site. I had my hair cut for the first time in awhile. The woman thought I should get rid of the yellow. Yellow? She talked my into a slate gray rinse which I immediately washed away as soon as I could. We worked around the boat and wiled away the time until Tuesday meeting people and finding a good loaf of bread just out of the oven. Things like that. We arranged a slip in the marina for a couple of days to access the electrician better. A lovely Canadian couple helped us into our slip which is hard to back into. They said they were planning to stay there for the season. Finally got Benjamin to look at our problem Tuesday afternoon and found we had stored peanut cans too close to our internal compass which was affecting the magnetism of our autopilot. That was easily fixed, and then he did some other things for us and would finish up on Thursday. Wednesday: After doing a sea trial out in the bay we then again had to go into the slip but this time 2 manatees were romping around our boat as we were trying to maneuver. That made everything more difficult to say the least. They are so slow and docile and were only interested in each other. Thursday: Had to spend the day again waiting for Benjamin and because he was late we had to plan to leave early the next day. Friday: Finally heading east again for the US Virgin Islands stopping first at Isla de Vieques.
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Virgin Islands Friday, May 25th: (US Spanish Virgin Islands) Since we were heading straight east we opted to motor-sail to Green Beach, a lovely anchorage on the NW coast of Isla de Vieques. The sandy beach is lined with lovely palms and sheltered from the east. We shared it with a few other boats and could see the coast of Puerto Rico nearby with its rolling hills and green foliage. Saturday, May 26th: Our next stop was Culebra NE of us, another motor-sail but close by. Found a good spot at Isla de Pena just west of Culebra. There were lots of boaters and realized the US was having its Memorial Day weekend. Our first anchoring didn't work and we found ourselves stern to the wind. This can happen next to high coasts and currents going different ways. Around us were many fish including Rays and Jack Fish herding a school of smaller fish. Sunday, May 27th: Lots of boat traffic on our way to St. Martin. Felt like we were back in Florida. After fuelling and provisioning at Crown Bay Marina we anchored across a bay at Christmas cove. So did many others and we felt surrounded but that changed when many left for the night elsewhere. Monday, May 28th: Our favourite cruising area came next - the BVIs, although Francis Drake Channel was busy because of the long weekend. The sailing was just great, calmer waters with the wind almost on the beam. Anchored at Norman Island where the old pirate boat had been replaced by a replica of a Nova Scotia barge. Had a drink there for old times sake. Prices were much higher. We had to pay $20 US for a mooring ball owned by a local restaurant. We could see 50 or 60 boats in our anchorage. What about high season? Tuesday, May 29th: Our last stop in the BVI was Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour. Try saying that fast on your VHF. Took a slip for the night among many traveling boats like ours. This was a great place to have a shower, do laundry and provision. They have a great facility and are beautifully set up. We had dinner out at "The Rock" set amongst the large boulders behind The Baths. Our next passage will be an overnighter to St. Martin 80M east.
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St. Martin, St. Kitts, Nevis, and Guadeloupe May 30-31: On our motor sail to St. Martin we saw many other boats throughout the night. You had to watch carefully and not get too close, especially to the tankers or cruise boats. The water across was choppy and we had to time our arrival for the bridge opening into Simpson Bay, or wait for the next one. Unfortunately we missed the 11AM opening and waited outside until 5:30PM in a sheltered bay but with rocky conditions. After anchoring inside we looked around at all the wrecks from Hurricane Lenny (November 1999). A couple we know from Toronto had their boat sunk here at that time but have since recovered it and are sailing again. We hope to catch up with Dave and Cheryl further south. Met another Canadian couple, Reg and Maureen on Heart of Oak who are also going our way and we'll keep in touch by amateur radio. Friday-Sunday: Al had a great time checking out the stores and making purchases. Good provisioning in a Super Store. Lots of Dutch and French treats as St. Martin is divided both ways. The weather was great here with a full moon surrounded by the sparkling lights all around us. Sunday: Left late for the 11AM bridge opening and planned an overnight to Nevis passing St. Kitts on the way. The sail was good and fast and by 6PM we reached St. Kitts and decided to anchor overnight. If we had gone on we would have reached Nevis during the night. We found a sleepy little fishing village on the NW coast called Sandy Town and dropped our anchor in the semi dark. Since we weren't checking into St. Kitts with customs we didn't want to be noticeable. Monday: The next day we sailed to Nevis. The winds were quiet off the lee of St. Kitts and just a short rough ride across to Nevis. Near the ends of the islands the winds pick up 10 or more knots than the prevailing winds so we had 20-30K leaving and approaching at each island plus squalls from unsettled weather. We anchored at Pinney's Beach at the NW end of Nevis. There is a Four Seasons hotel at the beach which attracts many tourists. Also there were 2 windjammers anchored nearby which hold 100+ people each. The beach was busy but the bar was fun. Tuesday: We checked out the stores and town by dinghy. Not a wealthy or modern country like St. Martin but with a nice atmosphere. Wednesday (June 5, 6): Another overnighter to Guadeloupe going past Montserrat where the volcano is still active. The weather deteriorated and dark clouds covered the sky although the full moon peeked out occasionally. We could see Monserrat in the distance through the rain. Thank goodness we weren't going east and heading into the wind. We reached Deshaies, Guadeloupe on Thursday morning. As we approached Guadeloupe the winds picked up above 30K. The bay was sheltered but the winds came over the mountains in force and our anchor held well. We decided not to check in with authorities but to go on the next day for The Saints, islands just south but part of Guadeloupe.
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Guadeloupe, Dominica, Martinique, and St. Lucia June 8: We were sheltered from the weather until reaching the south tip of Guadeloupe. After that we had to go straight SE into the high winds. The Saints were hidden by rain and clouds and we had to use our navigation skills to find the proper entrance. After a long struggle through the high waves The Saints were a welcome sanctuary protected from most of the weather. We anchored amongst many other boats from all over. The town here on Terre d'en Haute is very unique and charming. There are many shops and restaurants and most local people travel on scooters. Al walked up to the French Fort high on the hill and loved recalling the history of the English/French wars in the 18th century (1759-1763). He knows his dates like nobody I know. I was tempted and bought a dress and shorts dyed in beautiful Caribbean colours instead of climbing up a high hill. Saturday-June 9: We left The Saints to make Dominica for the next day. Our sail was fast in spite of rough seas and we reached our planned destination, Rubert's Bay, early, so went on to Rosseau. Boat men come out as you approach in order to help you tie up stern-to to something on shore and in our case the post of a veranda. James wanted $8 US which we paid although the going rate is $10EC (2.7 EC to the US$). Many people love the interior of Dominica because of the rainforest, waterfalls etc. We didn't enjoy looking at the depressing beach where a father was teaching his son how to tease their dog. The country is poor and provisions would be meagre so we left the next day as did most of the other boats anchored nearby. Didn't check with customs so left quietly. Sunday, June 10: From Dominica we had a rough sail to Martinique (25-30K and 8-9ft seas - force 6) but the boat handled well with shortened sails and we made the 35 miles in good time to anchor at St. Pierre by mid afternoon. St Pierre experienced a devastating volcanic eruption in the early 20th Century killing 29, 000 people. The story goes that the volcano forecast was ignored due to an election as the town council needed all the voters to be there to keep themselves in power. The recent mayor couldn't handle an evacuation so nothing was done. One can see blackened stones lying around on old foundations and the original jail where the 1 prisoner survived the disaster. Monday, June 11: Al had a hard time finding the customs man to check in but after 3 tries he caught the man at his office just leaving with a girlfriend. That's France for you and different from Cuba. Many of the waterfronts on the windward and leeward islands were damaged by Hurricane Lenny in 1999 and hadn't as yet been repaired. Martinique has good provisions, including croissants. Tuesday, June12: We moved south from St. Pierre to Grand Anse D'Arlet just south of Fort de France, a busy commercial city. This anchorage was in a picturesque bay. They had built a walkway free from cars and lined with restaurants. No provisions here though. Wednesday, June 13: We decided to finish up our trip in Martinique at Marin, a large marina and yachting centre on the south shore. Again going east we had to motor into the wind. Our 2 nights there gave us an opportunity to shop and work on the boat. Everyone in the marina seemed to be French families with many children. Were they staying during hurricane season or just having a holiday? I got my laundry done and found good fresh French bread. Friday, June 15: From Marin the sail to St. Lucia was good and we reached Rodney Bay, a trip of 35 miles, 6 hours later. Rodney Bay didn't interest us because it was too busy and somewhat polluted so we went further to Marigot Bay. It was a good choice and well protected in spite of 2 nights of loud music until 3am at the local restaurant. The customs was nearby and easy to access. Many tourist boats (large catamarans) came into our bay, full of loud music and camera toting passengers. They were taking an excursion from several of the hotels nearby. We became subject material. How interesting could that be? The tree frogs chirped all night like crickets but they are too small to see. A better lullaby than the ruckus music from the shore.
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Grenada Sunday, June 24th - The winds and seas were good when we left for Grenada but had to watch for diamond rock on our left before reaching Grenada. We anchored at St. Georges, the capital, for a few nights although we have been told of numerous thefts there in the lagoon which was too dirty to swim or make water. The Grenada Yacht Club is a welcoming place where one can leave their dinghy and have refreshments. The town of St. George is a unique place and very picturesque situated on several hills with lots of stores and restaurants. The museum depicted the battle to fight the socialist government not too long ago. Tuesday, June 26th - After exploring St. George's we decided to sail around the SW point and anchor at True Blue Bay very close to Prickly Bay and Hartman Bay, our final destination in Grenada. True Blue is nice and small but there is a surge due to unsettled weather even though we are on mooring balls. The new small marina offers services and a local restaurant which has a hotel attached is a good place to eat and meet other people. The social activities mainly come out of Prickly Bay where we will go next and of course meet lots more yachties. Wednesday, June 27th. - We had our biggest and longest rain so far. We feel boat bound and are experimenting with water collection for washing clothes and hair. At this time we went into a centre for my plane tickets to Toronto. Thursday-Saturday. - We motored over to Prickly Bay for new scenery and people. The rolling is probably just as bad or worse here but we have lots of company and made contact with 'Heart of Oak' again. Spent these days getting orientated and found a modern mall at Anse a bus and a walk away where the food shopping was good. Had a nice lunch at the Blue Crab, one of the more popular spots. Sunday, July 1, Canada Day! - Starting with a motor ride to the next harbour, Hartman Bay, we settled into their marina for the month. The weather wasn't good and for awhile we couldn't see to maneuver around some of the buoys to avoid the shoals. When the sun came out and rain left it became easy to find out way in. 'Lady Simcoe' organized a pot luck party on this day and afterwards most of us played dominoes. It was a good way to meet other people although the party was at Prickly Bay and we have to walk over when they have events. Secret Harbour marina is very beautiful and we are spoiled by the swimming pool at the hotel up the hill which has a terrific view of the bay. Monday, July 2 - Al got the dinghy cleaned and repaired after we discovered it had been damaged in Carriacou and was developing a leak. This month any repairs or changes can be made while the boat is in the marina. Tuesday, July 3 - For $5EC we can take a bus in to town and get a ride back. This is better than staying in St. Georges. There we can shop, use the internet etc. There I found a local artist who had some nice prints of local colour around St. Georges. Wednesday, July 4 - Of course we had to celebrate July 4th for the Americans so
another lunch and dominoes game. Since the celebrations stopped late we had dinner with a nice couple from Quebec, Ivan and Rita on the
'Absolut'. We will probably see them some time later in Margarita, Venezuela. We talked about our new grandchildren coming this
year. Got back to a beautiful full moon, warm night, steel band music on the terrace of our marina.
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Grenada July 5-8, Thursday to Sunday - Vicky arrived on Friday night and we had been looking forward to her arrival for a long time. We took the bus into St. George and showed her the town which is a great sight to see. The town surrounds a large bay and attractively mounts the hills around in layers of red roofs and old colonial buildings. At night we went to a dinner and dance at the Grenada Yacht Club which was celebrating the end of their regatta. The music was so-so and we enjoyed the intermission music from cds instead. A guest at our table from Nigeria asked me if Al across the table was my son. Did that ever please my husband. I guessed it was the amount of light we were having at the time and he really couldn't see. As I had very few days with Vicky we tried to have a good visit while she was here and the rest of her vacation would be spent with Al. I had to fly home early on Tuesday so left Hartman Bay at 4:30am to meet the plane which would be going first to Trinidad and then back to Toronto without any stops. July 8-August 8 - Time away for respite, visiting relatives and friends. Especially seeing our new grandson who was born in April while we were heading for Jamaica.
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Trinidad August 8 - Arrived back Wednesday night. Al met me at the airport with a rented car. After an hour from landing we arrived at Crewsinn marina and I settled again into boat life. August 8-15th. - Well I've been here in Crewsinn for a week which one needs to get back to acclimatizing . The social life continues from VHF channel 68 as we had in Grenada. We've got ourselves connected to some bride with one group and one other couple from Maine, a weekly domino game every Sunday and various get-togethers such as meeting up again with 'Guitar' after such a long time (last in Jamaica). We have nice neighbours on both sides, (American), and a friendly Canadian family on 'Inner Voice" who are cruising with their 2 boys on an Oyster 46' Ketch. They sailed out of National Yacht Club in Toronto but started from Florida like ourselves. Al is having lots of work done on the boat while we're here such as getting the Spectra watermaker working, having more canvas work done, rigging improvements etc. I will ask him to put all that in his Log. All this will take us into the middle of September when we head west to Venezuela. We have been on two Nature Tours. One to see the Leatherback turtles on a beach where the females lay their eggs and also to see the babies hatching out and trying to find their way to the water with our help. It was a unforgettable experience. The other was to a nearby swamp where we went to see the Scarlet Ibises who were spectacularly displayed against the blue sky late in the afternoon as they fly to their nesting grounds. The provisioning is good here and a taxi takes cruisers to various shops or to one of the malls for food or non-food items. We are very isolated here as there are incidences of robberies outside out gates. On the negative side we don't have the chance to associate with the Trinidadians easily. The ones I have met have been very friendly and helpful. I was at the open market last Saturday very early and saw the real life of the island. It was the largest and best market I had seen in all my travels. Here at Crewsinn we are in the newest and nicest marina in the bay. We have a swimming pool, laundry, exercise room, e-mail and showers available. What else can I ask for?
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Trinidad Work is still going on and many boaters have left their boats here to go home for awhile. Dominoes still rules on Sunday and we go to the pot luck suppers on Thursday. One brings something to BBQ, plus a dish to share. We went out for a short sail to check out asymmetrical sail and the whisker pole that keeps the genoa full out for downwind sailing. As we (our reefing man and 4 others) were finished a large black cloud appeared and we were engulfed by heavy rains and winds. A good thing we had the large sails down. Al had a hard time seeing his way back to the marina but fortunately it cleared up close to our destination. Trinidad had their Independence Day on August 31st including large fire works. It's like our July 1st. As we get ready to leave a lot of money will be left behind - new curtains on the boat, more canvas, watermaker reinstalled, rigging tuned, anchor refitted etc. Trinidad is the place to do all this. September 11 - The terrible tragedy in the US has lent a pall over all. Our American friends are supporting each other and meeting together for comfort. Those who had planned to fly home had to wait until flights stared again. The TV at the bar is on all the time with updated news. On Saturday the 8th we had a final dinner in town at a delightful French restaurant. On Monday we had a brief visit with Reg and Maureen from ¨"Heart of Oak". They had been home to New Brunswick for 6 weeks. Thursday, September 13th - We left the marina for a local bay called Scotland Bay and planned to leave late that day with another boat from Canada. It is a good idea to be with another boat near the Venezuela coast for safety. There had been incidences of piracy near the border of Venezuela and Trinidad. As the winds were light and were coming from the SW we motor-sailed all night. It was a beautiful night with no trouble. Los Tostigos are small islands NE of Margarita. After checking in with the coast guard we found a beautiful spot in front of a sand spit, protected from waves but hearing them crash against the other side of the spit. We shared the place with several other yachts and power boats from the mainland as well as many frigate birds and boobies After spending 3 nights there with good swimming and beach walking we left Tostigos early Monday and headed for Margarita.
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Left Los Testigos early for Margarita. When the wind came up we could put up all our sails and made it to Polamar just after lunch going 7-8K (hull speed).
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Juangriego, Venezuela to Puerto La Cruz Thursday, September 26: Sunday, September 30: Wednesday, October 3: We left for Cubagua 15Miles SW of Margarita following the coastline of Margarita. Cubagua is a dry, fairly low lying island and one anchors in a bay on the NW
corner. The water is very clear and there is nothing there but a few fishing huts, no roads, lights or other amenities. The old village 'Nueva Cadiz' was one of the first European settlement in North America (early 17th) mainly there to enslave the natives to harvest pearls. You can still see the remnants of pearl shells all over the ground. We walked in the hot, desert-like island for 2 hours and saw the ruins still there by the eastern shore some of it had fallen into the sea after a huge tidal wave. Friday, October 5: The winds decreased so much we had to motorsail our way to Mochima National Park on the mainland. It is a large area comprising small islands off the coast and areas on the coast uninhabited by people with no roads servicing the many inlets. We found a deep quiet bay just near the entrance to Mochima bay. There was one other boat from the US who had been there for the last 4 days. That was a good sign. We were surrounded by high hills covered by wandering goats. The water is still and deep. We were so protected that we didn't worry about hurricane Jerry far away. Sunday, October 7: We realized too late that it was the Canadian Thanksgiving but I had some chicken which we substituted for turkey. In the morning we were planning to take one more anchorage just before going into Puerto La Cruz.
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Merida, Venezuela At
first we couldn’t see the mainland due to a cloud cover over the land
but the high mountains suddenly appeared and entrance to Mochima Bay.
We found a quiet secluded small bay near the main entrance and
stayed there until Monday while the hurricane Jerry passed us by much
further north and east. There was an American boat there called Grande
Jete, a name suggested by a prominant ballet company as the owner’s
girlfriend had been a dancer. This boat had been there many days because
of the quiet waters and its seclusion. Some reports had warned boaters
from these waters as piracy had occurred but we felt safe amongst the
goats on the hills surrounding us and with no roads servicing this bay
although theft comes via boat. Thanksgiving
has come and gone. We almost forgot but managed to send greetings via SSB
to our children. We left in the morning for Seconda Segunda a small cove
10 miles from Bahia Redonda and a distance allowing us to arrive early and
find a slip. Bahia
Redonda has many boats, security and a pool that helps keep us cool.
Many boats are left there while the owners go home for a visit.
We stayed around for a week to scout the place and arrange a bottom
painting for our boat at a nearby boat shop. The marina is at the top end
of a large development built as a lagoon city filled with expensive condos
and homes. Many plans were stopped when investors took their money out
because of the economy such as in Margarita. We met others who had been in
Trinidad and Grenada as well as Ken on the ‘To The Moon’. We had a
good visit and his wife Nancy would be back in a week from the states. We
arranged a flight to Merida, a University town high in the Andes and a
popular place for a change of scenery. As others found we loved the place
and would have stayed longer if it had been possible. We stayed in a
Posada called Montaña Azul run by a woman who spoke no English. This way
we could practice our Spanish with her and in the many places around the
town. We stayed away from the usual boater’s hangouts for that reason
but we did take one tour with a popular guide who spoke English who took
us high into the mountains north of Merida. We went as far as 4000M and it
was difficult to do much hiking due to not being acclimatized to that
altitude. We walked for an hour in the Sierra Nevada Park and also went to
see the Condor sanctuary. It was exciting to see one of only 7 condors
left in the wild who had flown down. It has a huge wing spread of 10 ‘
and can fly as high as 10 000m. The
people in this area are noted for their ability to farm on steep hills
growing potatoes, garlic, cabbage and other crops which can grow in colder
climates. They use mules to bring down the produce but work the fields in
an almost vertical terrain. They have Indian features which is a result of
inbreeding between Indians and Spanish. They have ruddy cheeks , high
cheek bones and a native ability to live in this high region after many
centuries. I saw one farmer riding his small horse as though they were one
being and ascending the mountain at a fast pace with unbelievable control. There
are many excursions in the high mountains either going by horse or walking
to Alpine villages. At the moment we are spending our last day enjoying a
symphony concert at the University and visiting a nearby town by Por
Puesto, the local bus, for lunch and then a ride back through the
beautiful scenery. Tomorrow back to Puerto La Cruz and the boat.
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Inland travel in Venezuela October 20- Saturday: On this early clear morning we took the cable car to the top of the mountain just above Merida. The teleferica goes through 4 stations up to 4700m. At the top one could see Venezuela's highest mountain Pico Bolivar at 5000m nearby. Visitors get excited when they see the snow for the first time. The view of Merida and surrounding valley was spectacular. The last few days here were spent enjoying the atmosphere of the university town highlighted by a noon hour symphony concert with a violin soloist. A good crowd of local people but we saw no other English speaking tourists. Had lunch in a small tourist town called Jihi 40 km away. We took a Por Puesto, a local small van or bus used by the populist costing next to nothing probably because the bus is so short one couldn't stand up in it or see out properly. October 22-Monday: We flew home today by way of Caracas and arrived back to our boat that night. The heat after the mountains is a shocker. I had a tooth fixed that week in a mall nearby. Not a bad job. The broken tooth cost me 35 000B which is about $50 US so didn't bother to submit the cost to our insurance. Friday-October 26: A group of us went to a Columbian dinner with a karaoke bar. Good food specializing in grilled meat served on a hot metal platter with beans. I mentioned our 40th anniversary that weekend but no one seemed too excited since most of the people we meet are into their 2nd or 3rd marriage or common-law relationship. That makes us unique. Monday-October 29: The boat was hauled out today for bottom painting. What an inconvenience if you stay on the boat. A high ladder gets you up to the boat and god help you if you need to use the bathroom in the middle of the night which is a long walk across the yard. After Al arranged the work to be done we decided to go away for 4 days to visit Gran Sabana, a remote large area bordering Guayana and Brazil on the SE corner of Venezuela. Thursday-Tuesday-November 1-6: We were very glad to take this long trip in spite of a 20 hour bus ride partly overnight. Gran Sabana is a mystical and empty savannah inhabited only by Pemon Indians who are the only ones allowed to farm there. It is an area 35,000 sq. mi. as part of the Parque Nacional Canaima which includes Angel Falls. The area is dominated by gigantic flat-topped mountains called tepuis. The most famous called Roraima stands out like a top hat seen for miles around. Al says he will go back there and climb this tepuis which takes about a week. Our guide, Roberto met us in St. Helena in his 4 wheeled 1980's Toyota and for 4 days drove us around on often terrible roads to remote parts to see beautiful waterfalls and swim beneath the cool water flowing down into quiet pools. The waters in the rivers and falls take on various colours due to the minerals in the rocks including jaspar. Gold and diamonds are being mined just outside the park. Our nights were spent in small clean 'camps' looking like motels and run by the Indians which usually included a decent restaurant. Roberto believed in unusual phenomena and is writing a book of sightings he had seen and narrations of others. We didn't seen anything ourselves but I guess one just has to believe. He has part Indian blood and could tell all kinds of old Indian stories just like our natives in North America. A couple of places kept parrots and macaws that flew around us and expected to share our breakfast. Here the pet birds are left to fly on their own. I ate with one special parrot which insisted on sitting on my shoulder. One difficult place to get to was Kavanayen, a town started by Fransiscan monks. All the buildings are made of stone which is common in the park. They are very substantial and the town is very self sufficient. It did help to know that the Venezuelan president uses the area for his retreat. There is a beautiful house overlooking a large valley that he gets to by helicopter. On Monday after another busy day which included a hike up to a small mountain giving a spectacular view of the Brazilian Amazon valley we packed for our long bus ride back to our boat which we hope was now ready to put back in the water.
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Venezuela to Curazoa:
After preparing the boat and provisioning we were ready to leave early afternoon for Isla La Borracha (drunken lady) a few miles away and closer to Tortuga. Before that a problem with the dinghy motor and 2 hours later it was discovered that too rich an oil mixture had been put in with the gasoline and clogged up the spark plugs. Thursday, November 8: Left at 06:00 for Tortuga 50nm away in winds 15-20K and seas 4-8 feet giving us a fast and rolly ride reaching the NE point of the island at 14:00 at an anchorage called Playa Caldera. It proved to be a rolly place so the next day we moved to Caya Herradura where 12 other boats were at anchor and more protection from the swells. On the weekend power boats arrived from the mainland with many people enjoying the beautiful turquoise waters and the sandy beach. Sunday morning we found our watermaker wouldn't make water. What next! Sunday, November 12: Since we had a long 90m sail to Los Roques we left at 14:00 to give us a morning arrival with an average speed of 4K. The winds were 15-20plus and seas reasonable so at first we made 7K and more but as night approached we reefed down. The seas were getting rough and our boat rolled all night but our 4K average became 5K. Monday-Wednesday, November 13-14: Los Roques are quiet, beautiful islands consisting of many reefs for snorkeling with turquoise waters and many birds and fish. There is one small airstrip where tourists can come to spend days enjoying the pristine conditions.( Most of the south part of these islands is out of bounds as it is a park and protected unless one has a permit to explore.) Unfortunately we had to share this anchorage with an ultralite, a DC3 airplane and a windsurfer who was getting his power from a large kite. These islands as well as Los Aves belong to Venezuela. On Wednesday we motored to another anchorage called Sarqui to be closer to Los Aves 35m to the west. This one was quiet, beautiful and full of jumping fish with a reef and a beach very close. One can stay in these islands for weeks if there is no reason to go anywhere else. Thursday, November 14: On Thursday we moved west to Los Aves meaning The Birds as thousands use these islands for shelter and nesting, mostly Boobies and frigate birds who always seem to battle with each other. On Friday we moved to the west islands of Los Aves called Sonovents where we would be closer to Bonaire by 15m. Sonoventa is a strange area with a few dots of trees, a few large wrecks and many square miles of reefs. One can spend time there anchored among the reeks sheltered from the waves for splendid snorkeling. As we rounded the north end the winds and wake picked up and we had a wild ride to our chosen anchorage in front of a lighthouse but not so sheltered from the rolling waves as we had wished. A small bird took a rest on our cockpit. She took a rest, flew to our comfortable cushion and then flew into the cabin below. Before we could decide what to do she flew out again and away. I'm using cans now with most of the fresh food finished. Opened a boxed milk and tried to make bread again but there was not enough propane to keep the oven hot and out the loaf went. Must get to Bonaire soon. Saturday, November 16: Arrived in Bonaire after a 40M sail with good winds. After seeing the large lighthouse on the SE point it took 2 hours to reach the harbour of Kralendijk and later to Harbour Village Marina to solve some of our problems. Sunday, November 17: Although we don't like a marina due to less breeze and more mosquitoes it was great to have a cool shower and enough power to keep the fridge on. We spent this week solving minor boat problems. The town of Kralendijk is a modern, quaint town enjoyed by tourists stopping by on their cruise boats. We ate there several times but the prices are high after Venezuela. Thursday, November 21: We celebrated American Thanksgiving with the numerous American cruisers who planned a delicious noontime dinner of turkey and all the trimmings at a give-away price since everybody took part in the preparations. Friday-Sunday, November 22-24: We have done our provisioning and preparations. Now we took a mooring ball in the harbour so we can leave early in the morning for Curazao and Spanish Waters.
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Curacao to Columbia We had a good sail of 35miles to
Curacao all downwind. It's been awhile since we have had the rocky, rolly motion and it takes time to get over the queasiness. As we approached the lee shore of
Curacao the seas were calm and we found the entrance to Spanish Waters easily and anchored in a very calm natural harbour. An old fashioned partly open bus took us into town for a 40 minute ride for only 1.25 gilders (50c US) Once there we checked into customs and immigration not situated close together unfortunately. Immigration required a long hot walk across the channel by a swinging bridge which floats open to let the large ships pass through.
Curacao is very unique with multicoloured buildings throughout, clean, and relatively safe. The spectra watermaker is now being serviced and we hope will work when we leave here. Took the daily bus to the market provisioning for several weeks. Some of the food from Cuba is going to the garbage. During happy hour Ken and Nancy arrived from Bonaire and now we can plan our sail together to Columbia. The Spectra is finally working so we were late getting into town after Brian finished the servicing. We found our planned restaurant was closed after walking miles including a long uphill climb since it was located in an old fortress. The tourist information book had been wrong about closing time. The caretaker felt sorry for me and drove us back into town going out of his way and not taking anything for his trouble. There are nice people everywhere you go. After a quiet weekend we got together with Ken and Nancy on 'To The Moon' to plan our passage to Cartegena. Although we had planned to leave today, the day started with a downpour which lasted until the afternoon. At least the guys got checked out in town and the girls did a last minute grocery shopping. We left Spanish Water at 09:00 for a 25mile sail to the north end of
Curacao in a quiet anchorage and a good place to hop early to Aruba the next day for
60 miles. We anchored in front of all the hotels and long beach that makes up the fun part of this tourist island. It had been years since we were there and I could see much more development further east from the hotel where we had stayed. The windsurfing seemed just as popular. Al, being really concerned about our instruments quickly got on the satellite phone to a technician in Florida. After several tries he found one who talked him through the problem and eventually after disconnecting the depth
instrument we got the other instruments back for the next part of our trip. Tonight we said goodbye to Ken and Nancy who are going straight through while we have decided to hop step by step along the coast. Unfortunately they had a time
commitment and had to change their mind. There is concern for security being a boat alone but we're sure to see other boats coming behind us. We left early from Aruba to reach "The Rocks" (Monjes) half way between Aruba and the far west tip of Venezuela. It is a funny place run by young Venezuelan coast guards who must hate being stuck out on a rock for weeks manning the lighthouse, calling vessels who happen by and sometimes welcoming strangers like ourselves as a diversion. They had us tying up to a strong line running across their bay between two large rocks somewhat like mooring balls so one is not sure how well it holds in strong winds which we were getting. We were up at 0:00 and out of the lonely spot at the end of nowhere and the last outpost of Venezuela. When we finally got the sail up in the dark we made a fast run to Capo Vela in 20-30K and 8' seas rocking and rolling downwind. About noon we saw the anchorage behind a low spit of land which didn't stop the winds but put us in quiet waters among many fishing nets. Early in the morning 3 boats arrived and anchored near us (2 Dutch and 1 German). We felt better having them near but I couldn't reach them by VHF to ask if we could go with them. We hadn't so far felt there was a security problem although one fishing boat came by with a man and his son who wanted us to fill their water bottle which we did plus a chocolate bar for the little boy. We left Capo Vela for a 24 hour sail
120 miles away to the 'Five Bays', small bays along the Columbia coast 15
miles east of Santa Marta. The only object we had to watch out for was a large oil platform off the coast but well lit. As daylight brought our senses into focus we began to see the high mountains behind the coast called the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. This anchorage is beautiful surrounded by high hills but the winds swirl around and we twirled around our anchor all night and the wind kept me awake a good part of the night with all its howling. That night Al put out the flashlight, the flare gun, the horn and the pepper spray just in case we had 'visitors' but we had a quiet night except for the winds.
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Columbian coast to Cartegena We spent 2 nights at this whirly anchorage surrounded by high hills. Our boat went in circles due to constantly changing wind directions caused by the mountains. On this passage from Aruba I checked in with Mississauga Net, a ham station run by wonderful ham operators in eastern Ontario. Because we were alone I felt better having someone know our whereabouts each day. There were a few houses in the bay and some fishermen who left each morning in a long boat across the bay to a fishing camp. No one came to our boat. The three boats we saw at Capo Velo passed our bay entrance probably to anchor in one of the other bays further west. We came across them later when they finally contacted us in Hermanos. Apparently one of them dragged their anchor all night in the bay and rode around in circles until daylight. They also told us that going from Rodedero to Hermanos had been a terrible time for two of the boats. On Wednesday we motored around a large point of land in 30-40K before finding shelter from the waves at a resort town just west of Santa Marta called Rodedero. This small town is clearly a holiday resort and always busy at Christmas. Lots of people enjoying the water on paddle boats, sea-dos, motorboats etc. We went to shore on a paddle boat which was a new experience since our dinghy was deflated and sitting on the deck. Even though we used our own foot power it cost $4000 pesos ($2 US) for a one way trip and a wet step to the shore. We got a chance to get our shore legs and have a meal or two. We had to contend with hawkers and venders and stares since there are no foreign tourists here. They all wanted to try out their English on us. The three boats from the other anchorage had arrived just before us but I still couldn't reach them on VHF. On our second day we were visited by port authorities etc. and told we couldn't stay any longer without checking in and we talked them into letting us stay until midnight when we had planned to leave. I heard that the other 2 boats had been charged $30 US each for some reason. Maybe their Spanish wasn't as good as ours. Friday, December 14: We left early for the sail to the next anchorage 60m away. We picked up plenty of wind and high seas for a close downwind sail across the large bay and across the mouth of the Rio Magdalena which we were warned could be very turbulent especially in high winds. All day the winds stayed between 30-40K so we just used our stay sail and felt reasonably comfortable that the boat could handle the large following waves. We tossed and rocked taking in lots of water on our deck and occasionally in our cockpit. I was glad when we finally got past the river mouth and neared our next anchorage. Al just loved the excitement. Hermanos is composed of a man made spit which one tucks behind to find quiet waters and the same amount of wind. On my various calls to Dave on Amoenitus he had given us the exact way point for the end of the spit which was very helpful and when we got a call from one of the Dutch boats we were able to give the same WP to them since this spit was not on the charts. Saturday, December 15: We left this good anchorage at 0400 with just our stay sail until daylight and then as the wind subsided all the sails came up and finally heading SW to Cartegena the wind died right down and we were required to motor the rest of the way. It was a welcome sight to see Ken on 'To The Moon' meet us in his dinghy before the Boca Grande entrance and lead us through the narrow shallow opening since we had no depth sounder. The opening has been cut away from the permanent sunken wall built 500 years ago to protect the city from invaders. Cartegena: The history of the city is extraordinary and it is a shame that so few tourists are visiting since it is a safe place to visit taking the usual precautions that you take in any city. The famous hero Don Blas de Lezo is credited with saving the city from the English invaders led by Edward Vernon a relative of George Washington in 1741. At this point Don Blas had lost one leg, one eye, and one arm in previous fighting. The English had boldly made medals showing Don Bas surrendering to them with all his limbs intact before the battle began. There were almost 24,000 English and only 2,500 Indians and slaves and a few Spanish to defend the city. After many months and disappointments the English had to leave and Cartegena remained intact. Much can be credited by the strong wall built around the city and disease which claimed many English lives. The history is in evident all through the city and one can walk for days to experience this history. After walking the city on Sunday we felt that Maria Hemingway in Cuba could have looked like this if Castro hadn't let the country go to ruin. We had street hawkers at us most of the time in the old city but one takes it in stride and tries to ignore the products which are usually T-shirts, sunglasses, beads, a business card to one of the emerald stores etc. It's their living so you can't blame them for trying as there are so few tourists. The old town is surrounded by a thick high wall and one can walk all around the town on the top of this. Our marina is situated on part of this wall. We are here until our new depth sounder arrives by courier so we are enjoying the dining experience, using the internet, window shopping and the atmosphere of the town. The streets are narrow and the windows above have overhanging flowers. At night all the important buildings are lighted including the wall and with the lighted Christmas decorations you couldn't ask for a more beautiful place to be away from home. Christmas Day: We woke up to the hot day not like home and had our traditional orange juice and champagne. I tried to make crepes like our girls but couldn't quite make them taste the same. The night before we went to a party at the other marina and enjoyed a turkey dinner and gift exchange. We saw a few cruisers we had met previously and it was great to see them again. Most people here are going through the canal and I can imagine the place will be packed in February. On Christmas Day there was a pot luck lunch at the same place and a good way to be with people when you miss your own family.
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