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Archives - 2004Sept. 14 - Oct. 9: Ionian Sea, and Tyrrhenian Sea to Rome August 26-September 17: Greece to Italy August 3-26, 2004: Turkey - Marmaris to Kusadasi July 17, 2004: Turkey- Finike to Marmaris July 24, 2004: Turkey - inland trip to Cappadocia April 1-28, 2004: Hurghada to Suez Canal March 18 - April 1, 2004: Suakin, Sudan to Egypt March 2-11, 2004: Massawa, Eritrea February 21-29, 2004: Gulf of Aden to Eritrea January 29-February 1: Indian Ocean Passage January 15-25, 2004: Sri Lanka January 1-15, 2004: Port Blair, the Andaman Islands to Sri Lanka
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Port Blair, the Andaman Islands to Sri Lanka Once getting permission to enter Port Blair harbour and after telling us where to anchor we had to arrange to pick up the various authorities at the dock. By this time the bay was getting choppy and the dinghy wouldn't keep anyone dry. The first group was immigration and after that customs. Al arrived back with one group, they did the paperwork and returned back to the dock soaking wet. The next group, customs, laughed at their state and returned with Al in the dinghy but didn't get as wet. One of the customs officer brought his little boy who seems scared the whole time especially in the dinghy. Their visit took a long time and they asked for a list of everything on board. Al started to write a list in longhand with carbon paper. Since he was taking so long (deliberately) they just said to list important portable equipment such as cameras, jewelery etc. In both cases the people were polite and professional but oh so detailed. We had a list from (a) to (o) on the procedures which included checking in to Port Authority twice a day especially if visiting any other islands. When Al took these men and a nervous little boy back to the dock the Coast Guard arrived with their boat with 3 men. They were interested in our safety equipment, our log book and radio book. First time in 3 years we had asked for these items. Lots more paper work. I asked for some frequencies or numbers that could be called on an emergency basis. They gave numbers that could only be used on a land phone and said their radio frequency was 'secret'. So much for that. Then we had to go to the Port Authority in town. After a dinghy ride we took a taxi, looking like an old Nash but Indian-made, to the Port office and Al filled out more papers. We were given permission to visit Havelock Island or one of a few that were available to a cruiser. We weren't staying very long and Havelock would have taken a good day to reach it against the wind so we decided to forget visiting Havelock. If one were to cruise the Andaman Islands only there are some very beautiful remote places to visit but many islands are not permissible to visit. The Andaman and Nicobar Islands are a territory of India and home to the oldest tribes in this part of the world. These tribes are protected and the islands occupied by the indigenous people are isolated from visitors, especially the Nicobar Islands. Of the 572 islands in the 2 groups only 36 are occupied. We visited the most interesting place, Port Blair, the capitol. The British established their first colony in 1789 but it was abandoned in 1796. In the 19th century they annexed the islands and established a penal colony for Indian Freedom Fighters, called the Cellular Jail. It was completed in 1908. In 1947 when India achieved independence the islands became part of India. It had been a place of horrendous atrocities for more than 30 years. Many Indian tourists now visit the jail, a shrine to all those who died there. We spent the week soaking up 'a bit of India'. There was the abundance of sacred cows, freely wandering wherever they wished, even on traffic circle centers, beautifully coloured saris on the women, hundreds of fast moving 'tuk-tuks', the 3-wheeled vehicle we also saw in Sri Lanka, and a busy, dusty, congested city with its many interesting shops. The restaurants were so-so and the provisioning less so except for the fresh food market. We were able to check the internet and eliminate all the junk mail that accumulates on our land-based e-mail. We were regarded as an oddity, not being Indian, and many Indian tourists were very curious, even having themselves photographed with us. The other place we visited was Ross Island, once the administrative headquarters for the British and now overgrown by the trees and plants surrounding the buildings. We took a ferry along with many Indians who come in large tour groups from Madras or Calcutta. Once called the 'Paris of the East' this collection of buildings were destroyed by an earthquake in 1941, six months later the British moved to Port Blair. It was an
eerie place walking amongst the old ballroom, bakery, boiler room, officer's club, church etc. January 6-14, Voyage to Sri Lanka: Leaving Port Blair was very dramatic. After spending half a day checking out in the antiquated various bureaus we left the next morning. Up went the hook and a quiet motor to the harbour entrance. As we were putting up the sail the first boat in the Phuket to Andaman race just arrived. It was 'Schtormvogel' , a large beautiful yacht with 8 crew heading right for us. They were busy arriving and not paying attention. Schtormvogel was the boat used in the movie 'Dead Calm'. While this was happening our sail tore as we were raising it, the motor heated up (found later the fan belt had broke) and had to be turned off, we were heading for the reef around Ross Island, and Al had wrenched his back and was in pain. We had to put the motor back on to keep away from the reef and approaching yacht and I suggested going back to the anchorage to fix the problems. No way, says Al so we put on a new fan belt and sailed all the way to Sri Lanka with a torn sail although Al tried to mend it on the way with little success. The sail across the bay of Bengal went well in spite of the tear and with a 3rd reef we could protect the sail somewhat. The winds were 20-25K but on our back which is a nice way to sail. We developed a good system of watches, meals and free time as we approached the coast of Sri Lanka. By the 12th the winds had quieted down and we were entering the south east part of the country. On the 13th we got heavy rain and no visibility but and had to use the radar to watch for ships and fishing boats heading for Galle. We were told that boats often get approached aggressively by fishermen who want cigarettes but they left us alone. We had a 4K current so almost let the boat follow the current to our next heading. The next day we followed the south coast by motor as the winds had stopped and we found our way in the dark to an anchorage outside the inner harbour called 'Watering Point'. In the morning 'Watering Point' to me, appeared to be right around the other side and looked much calmer than where we had picked to anchor. One has to enter in daylight and get permission to be in the inner harbour where the Navy and Police are situated. The yachts have to be escorted through and helped to be tied up to a 'dock' which is really bow on a buoy and stern to a floating dock that became a balancing exercise to reach dry land. We were finally in Sri Lanka.
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Sri Lanka A flimsy piece of paper allowed us to come and go through the police protected gate. Once out of the port area the cruisers are aggressively approached by various people wanting to get your business whether for a tour, laundry or shopping. We had used GAC Shipping as our agent who processed our entry but didn't suggest any particular individual for tours etc. We were very happy with their services. We had to pay $200 US for entry fees and the agent who arranged for diesel and water. Later, Nuwan the agent, had us for dinner at his Mother's house. It was a wonderful experience eating a traditional meal in the traditional way with the fingers. There is a serving of rice in the middle of the plate and surrounding it are various foods you eat with the rice. To get into Galle you had to walk 20 minutes through the dock yard, amongst cows and chickens looked after, we supposed by the army camp situated in the harbour, then through the gate where several tuk-tuks vied for your business. The town of Galle is Sri Lanka's most historical city and use to be the major port before Colombo. There were the Dutch who arrived in 1640 destroying most of the traces of Portuguese presence who came earlier. In 1663 the Dutch built a fort, now a World Heritage Site. Although mostly in ruins it overlooks the beauty of the rocks far below and the Indian Ocean. One can walk the surrounding walls and stroll around the inside of the Fort enjoying the many old buildings . The gates of the Fort with their beautifully carved wood still remain . Most of the old buildings date from the Dutch era and are now museums or places to stay. We arranged with another boat, Volovent II from Vancouver with Andre, Alex and Mieko, to do an inland tour. It was highly recommended to take a tour if one were in Sri Lanka. We used a self appointed tour operator who arranged a van and driver. We negotiated a price and discussed the itinerary with him. We also wanted the option of changing our hotel if we didn't like the one prearranged. There were several 'agents' who could do the same thing and they were in constant competition and disparaging toward each other. Our tour took 4 days and we started with a tour of Yala National Park. It was too long on bad roads and only a few specimens of wild life appeared in the distance. We saw groups of buffaloes, crocodiles, deer, and a few elephants as well as many birds. The scenery was open scrub, lagoons and lakes covering a vast area. It was night when we arrived back to our first hotel near the gates of the park. Our next 2 nights covered the beautiful highland scenery called the Hill country which included Kandy and the tea plantations of Nuwara Eliya. They were a highlight of our trip. It was also much colder but a welcome relief from the
oppressive heat of Galle. It was there we saw a traditional dance performance for the tourists including fire walking . The special Temple of the Tooth which houses Sri Lanka's most important relic, the tooth of Buddha was also in Kandy. A bomb detonated near the entrance in 1998 so that visitors now go through searches and X -rays before entering the Temple. We also saw the process of the tea industry from the picking to the final packing of the tea. On our return it was time to think of leaving Galle for the Maldives. We had planned to go to Cochin, India but had seen enough of that country for now and we owed Vicky a trip to a more remote area instead of another dirty city. After making sure we had seen what Galle had to offer by way of culture and souvenirs we only had to deal with provisioning for 2 weeks and getting our diesel and water. Everyone, the driver who took Vicky and Al to the clinic, Nuwan who called their own GAC doctor, and all the clinic staff plus anyone in the harbour who heard the radio were very concerned. The doctor put in some stiches and left a good part raw and told him to stay put for a few days. Well, knowing Al, he wasn't going to stay put very long and so it was that SOLARA got underway the next day. Fortunately Vicky was with us and she and I were virtually in charge for the next few days for our sail to the Maldives with Al sitting back giving orders. The winds were light and we motored a good part of the way and arrived January 29th in Uligan, Maldives.
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Uligamu, the Maldives: Uligan (aka Uligamu) is a small island on an atoll at the northern tip of the Maldives. The only way to get there is by boat. A larger town on the same atoll has an airfield and one can take a small plane from there to other parts of the Maldives. You just have to find your way to that town. Many cruising yachts come here on their way to the Indian Ocean and parts west. It is a good place for R&R as there is nothing to do. We checked in to their agent Ahmed who also arranged diesel for us in our jerry cans. We were handed an information sheet on what not to do such as not allowing local people on or near our boat, dressing properly in this strictly Muslem village, no alcohol on shore, and not giving anything to anyone without permission. In spite of these restrictions the village people were very friendly,
inviting us to their playday (editor's note: also known as 'Eid', a
muslim festival celebrated in accordance with the February lunar cycle)
where everyone participated and to a local dinner where the women cooked a
traditional meal at cost. The place was Vicky left from here to take a 'middle of the night' boat to the airfield 4 hours away and on to a resort for a few days. Al and I were soon leaving here for the 8-10 days sail across the Indian Ocean to Oman. Sunday, February 4-13 Indian Ocean passage: Our sail went well. Katie on the s/v Klondike was an emergency nurse from California and checked out Al's finger, took out the stitches and gave advice on ongoing treatment. Then I had to play nurse for a few weeks just to be sure no infection set in. We were 2 again and began a different schedule. It always takes 3
or 4 days to acclimatize to a longer passage. (1200nm). The winds were
light and behind us Friday, February 13-21 - Oman: We arrived today in Oman after 10 days. Our sail was stuck and
wouldn't come down on our approach into the harbour so after anchoring with
it up many cruisers came over to help, knowing that Al's right hand was
still not useful. The problem turned out to be a screw that had partly
come out and caught on the sliders on the track. We had lots of help
and we saw many of the boats we knew from Sri Lanka and the Maldives that
had Oman was our first Arabian country showing us the beginning of the vast, sandy,dry terrain that we would experience for several months. Our boat would start to collect the stuff and it wouldn't be until April that we would be somewhere to wash it off. The salt would also collect and start to eat away our lovely metal. Oman was also our first developed, richer country where we would find good provisions. The harbour was very secure and we had to go through a security gate and show our passes every time we left the port area. Our passports remained with the agent until we left the country. I had a problem with the old iron ladder we had to climb from the dinghy to get on the dock as there was nothing to grab on to once on the last rung. The diesel and water we ordered also had to be lowered with a rope to the dinghy and then taken to our boat. Nothing was too easy but there were also other cruisers who offered to help. We rented a car for a few days as Salala was very spread out and there was much traveling between stores. It was cheaper to rent than to take a taxi. We went to the local souq to buy frankincense and myrrh, both famous perfumes from this area. One could also buy the burner to burn these cubes of resin looking lumps. The local people would burn them in their houses and also pass the smoke under their garmets to perfume their bodies. Frankincense comes only from a few places in the world from the trees that is the source of this aromatic gum. In the ancient world its scarcity made it most sought after, even more than gold. I took a day's outing with a few other cruisers. There is no single road that parallels the shoreline so we had to go up and back for sightseeing the places we wanted to see. There was Job's tomb some miles away protected in a small building just away from a large mosque far into the hills. The tomb itself is a single long grave set into the floor and covered in ornate shrouds embroidered with verses from the Quran. It is considered a sacred place and proper decorum expected. Our trip also included a trip inland to see the tents of the Bedouins who are still nomadic and who inhabit the mountains and plains of the region around Salala. Their encampments weren't much to look at now with new materials of tin and plastic. We also saw an oasis which was being used by some local boys although warning signs told of the danger of the snails in the water that gets into the skin. We saw camels for the first time. Although they seemed to roam freely they all had an owner. Camels were used for milk and meat like cattle as well as a beast of burden. Al-Balid was the ruined site of the ancient city on the coast. It was a beautiful harbour once very active but now overgrown and harbouring many migratory birds instead of ships. Above this on a high hill are the remains of the town now overgrown. The rest of the time in Salala was spent provisioning, again, filling up the diesel and water tanks and making sure our boat would handle the next 700nm to our destination of Baba el Mandeb, the southern tip of the Red Sea. Since we were going through the pirate area of the Gulf of Aden all the boats in Salala at the time had a meeting and arrangements were made to go in convoys. There was a very organized plan made up by a few cruisers and we fortunately were involved with being part of this group. Next report will be our experience on the Gulf of Aden. Just a note that the Arabs had a hard time with our boat called Solara mixing it up with Salala and Al's name which means 'the' in Arabic.
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Gulf of Aden to Eritrea About 13 boats left Salalah on Saturday, February 21 in order to pass through the 'pirate area' during the week instead of a weekend. (pirate information and avoidance comes mainly from noonsite web site for sailors). The winds were light and we motored a lot. The plan was to head for a waypoint about 200 hundred miles further along the Gulf and gather there. That would determine which boats traveled about the same speed and make up convoys which will go through the problem area together. Since 1998 there had been 18 reported incidences either of piracy or attempted piracy in a particular area that we had to go through. As we approached the waypoint just before the bad area we were a group of 4 with one boat 10nm ahead and others zipping ahead on their own. That night the boat ahead of us called 'MayDay' and gave their position. This boat, 'Klondike' speeded up and finally got away from the fast fishing type boat. During this time Al offered to use our satellite phone to call an anti-piracy number in Australia, which in turn gets the message to Kuala Lumpur which heads the anti-piracy association in the area and finally to the authorities in the Gulf. No ships or coalition ships answered the VHF Mayday call. A few days later, a French boat had been boarded and robbed in the same place. In both cases these attacks happened 10 miles before the so called bad area. We knew it was best to keep 100 miles from Somalia on the South side and 25-50 miles from Yemen. These pirates were usually Yemeni and in some cases bringing refugees to Yemen from Somalia. At the designated waypoint we five boats planned a formation for the night using our radar to keep together and our lights off. Before that during the day a large coalition warship from Spain came to our group to get the information first hand from Klondike. That proved to us that no yacht could depend on any support during an attack. Before the warship arrived a helicopter flew over and got particulars from each yacht such as nationality, crew numbers and destination. We hung around while the Spanish did their interview with Klondike arriving to their boat in a large zodiac. After all was over the happy group of young Spanish sailors gave each boat 2 bottles of really good Spanish wine. The night we kept our formation and kept in touch by SSB and when daylight came we were very relieved that we had finally passed the area with no more Mayday calls. A helicopter came back that day to see if we were OK. As we neared Aden three of the boats in our group decided to go into Aden along with other boats before us and many of those following but we as well as 'Blackwattle' from Australia continued on to take advantage of the light winds to go through the Straits of Bab el Mandeb and the Red Sea. Al's goal was to reach the Red Sea by the end of February and we just made it. Bab el Mandeb Black Wattle and ourselves decided that going through the smaller strait would be easy enough at night as the winds were lighter and there wasn't a chance of running into large ships in the large channel. We cruisers had heard or read many stories about the high winds at this point. Knowing cruisers as we do these stories get passed around easily and take on a different sinister flavour. As it was we had a quiet passage through but with our sails reefed down just in case. We followed up the eastern side past the first port and toward the Hanish Islands. When daylight came we crossed the shipping lanes south of the Hanish Islands, now part of Yemen, and over to the West side of the Red Sea. Now the SE winds really came up to 25-30 knots when we were planning to stop after such a harrowing trip since Salalah. Our goal was Marsa Dudo some miles north of Aseb, Eritrea but the winds, choppy waves and scary looking approach to our first anchorage caused us to continue north instead. With the good winds behind us we continued and found the night quite relaxing with no ships or fishing boats nearby. We continued this way toward Massawa, Eritrea until I really felt we needed to stop at a bay call Anfile Bay. It was beautiful, peaceful and quiet with only birds for company. I could have stayed 2 nights after we had been out so long and gone through the Gulf of Aden and the pirates. Black Wattle called us from 3 hours away and also decided to join us there. They were also exhausted. Next stop, Massawa, Eritrea * to get a first hand account of Klondike's experience go to 'Noonsite' and the follow the piracy link.
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Massawa, Eritrea The coast was very flat so nothing could be seen until we were close. Being the only shipping port town there were many ships outside and in the harbour. We called the port authority for permission to enter and we were told to tie up at the dock which didn't look that good for our boat because of the large black tires on the side. Black Wattle said we could tie up beside them which was nice for us and then Al took our papers to the various authorities and we were then legally entered with very little cost. The anchorage was some distance from the entrance but there was lots of room and not many boats had arrived yet. Mike was the cruisers' contact and help in obtaining fuel, water and other assorted things. The port of Massawa was showing considerable war damage, with many bombed-out buildings after the conflict with Ethiopia and after a 1990 bombing by northern rebels to free Massawa from Ethiopian control. Eritrea and Ethiopia had been in conflict for 30 years. A 1952 UN resolution had Ethiopia and Eritrea as one with Eritrea autonomous but this didn't work and a secessionist movement began soon after. Before all that Eritrea and Ethiopia were ruled by Haile Selassie and his palace remains can still be seen in Massawa. In 1941 the Italians, having been there since the late 19th century, were defeated by the British who ruled until 1952. You can see the suffering and damage that took place and border conflicts still arise with Sudan, Ethiopia and rebels in the north. Finally Eritrea became independent in 1991. The rebel heroes are idolized in posters and a large statue of the sandals worn by these freedom fighters stand in a square in Asmara, the capitol. We felt welcome here but Massawa was a tired, war-torn city, the people poor and the infrastructure weak. There was little employment and many men sat around the bars throughout the day. The country had suffered disease and starvation especially in the 1970's. The cafes, such as they were, were always full and the local beer, Asmara, was good. Most of the locals drank tea, coke or coffee as they were Muslim. Provisioning was not good in Massawa but the bread was tasty. Many people spoke Italian and were disappointed when we couldn't reciprocate. Mike invited four of us for a special Eritrean coffee 'ceremony'. We went to his home and his wife roasted the raw beans, hand-ground them with a mortar and pestle and cooked the coffee in a special clay pot on their charcoal stove. It took a long time but 'wow', what wonderful coffee. Black Wattle, ourselves and Revision 11 with an English couple, arranged a 3 day trip to Aswara, the capitol of Eritrea. The trip was recommended by many cruisers as Asmara had a real Italian atmosphere from the time of the Italian occupation before 1941. The various buildings in Asmara were Italian design and others with art deco features. The place was like a breath of fresh air. Of course it was cooler in the mountain air but it was also not showing war damage, had wonderful restaurants and a feeling of prosperity. The place was filled, though, with UN workers because of past conflicts, starvations, and droughts. Asmara was also a good place to buy some good Italian provisions plus the outdoor market was much better here. Although expensive I was excited to get some Parmesan cheese, salami and other things. We also got our Egyptian visa there in one day where it usually took 2 days as we had arrived on a holiday weekend by error. It was March 8, universal Woman's day, mostly celebrated in Africa and other developing countries (editor's note: we call it 'International Woman's Day', and it is very much recognized in N. America and Europe, albeit usually celebrated by mass e-mailing between female friends of a lot of terrible poetry about the 'power of women', and the playing of many female musicians on college radio - pretty much on par with 'Black History Month' and 'Earth Day'). After getting back many other boats had arrived but we were preparing to leave. It was nice to see Free Radical again after Salalah. We just leave as they arrive in many cases or vice versa. The weather seemed to be into a weather window and our first day would be a very short 10 miles to Sheik el Abu and Harat Islands, the anchorage was in between these two and very comfortable that night. March 11-18, Massawa to Suakin, Sudan: After our first anchorage we sailed further north to Difnein Island, a small island, because the winds were light the anchorage was quiet but it could be rolly in higher winds. We went on an overnight from there to Kor Narawat, a popular and quiet bay on the South Sudanese coast. There were a few of us there but we all planned to leave in the morning so no one did any visiting. Our goal was the Shubuk channel, an intricate but protected channel parallel to the coast, and then to Suakin. The winds were coming up again so we headed for an outer island called Talla Talla Saqir about 15 miles off shore. There were many Sudanese fishing boats anchored behind the island, some big and others much smaller. The next day, March 15, we had a rough but good sail direction west to the Shubuk channel and shelter from the 20-25 Knot winds. We anchored at Long Island at the entrance to the channel. There were about 8 of us here waiting for calmer weather. The next day Al wanted to try for the channel and take a stop just beyond but as we left the anchorage the wind and waves were so strong we couldn't make any headway. It wasn't worth the trouble and the winds behind the island didn't indicate the true conditions. So back we came and no boats had started out with us but waited for our attempt. Wednesday, March 17: The winds had lightened so we slowly motored carefully through the channel watching for the markers, the reefs, the charts and pilot directions. Not always good for wife/husband relations. Looking back there were 3 boats following us, real wimps. Soon we saw the entrance markers to Suakin harbour, our first port in Sudan.
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Suakin, Sudan to , Egypt One has to pass tanks sitting on the sand dunes at the entrance and the usual armored soldiers guarding the port. Sudan is disputing the border with Egypt and probably elsewhere as well. Suakin is like going into the past. Old Suakin, on an island just before the anchorage, is a crumbling ruin of old former beautiful buildings not damaged by war but naturally falling apart .Once Port Sudan became the major port the town was too poor to maintain the old coral walls. Sudan's religious history is a mixture; Christianity, Muslim and in the south local animist belief. In 1820 the regime was Turko-Egyptian and the British became involved in the 1870's. A fanatic Islamic revolt ousted the British who
re-conquered Sudan in 1898. The British then governed for the next 50 years and expanded the boundaries. Some cruisers have taken more time than ourselves and tell stories of seeing much wildlife, nesting ospreys and spear fishing tasty fish. We had the pleasure of many dolphins which followed our boat up the coast. After anchoring the local cruiser guide/agent called us from shore because he needed to come to the boat to clear us in. It was an easy entry and we were soon issued a shore pass. He kept our passports until we cleared out. He also arranged diesel and helped with provisioning if we needed it. The old Suakin town was joined to the main town by a causeway. This town, made of coral, now deserted and crumbling was the last slave-trading post in the world. From the 10thC until after WW11. Walking into town was like going into the past. Donkey carts and camels were mainly the way people carried goods,
traveled or sold wares. There was a large market area but provisioning except for fresh fruits and vegetables was poor. There was even a camel 'parking lot'. Taking pictures was an experience. Some didn't like my taking pictures and others wanted their picture and see what the digital camera showed. March 22 - April 1: Suakin to Hurghada, Egypt Since we had a weather window we decided to head out further and sail the northerly wind or motor when it becomes too light. By Tuesday we were outside the reefs and making good progress with 2 nights behind us and close to Egypt just south of 24 degrees north. Unfortunately the weather didn't cooperate and by the fourth day many boats, like ourselves, were caught into 25+ winds on the nose. We tried very hard to get at least to Ras Banas, at the top of Foul Bay just a few miles beyond the Egyptian border. What scared us both was that the visibility became poor and large ships were almost on top of us before we could see them and they couldn't see us in 3 meters waves. We used our radar but there were too many ships and we were out too far. It was a hard decision after fighting north so hard but we had to turn back and find shelter in Foul Bay 40 miles SW of our position. Two places were available as the cruisers now sheltered gave us waypoints to their anchorages. Revision II at 'Dangerous Reef' and Papoose at 'White Rock' further up and closer to us were very helpful. In both cases we couldn't make either one in the dark and had to 'heave to' for the night just outside the reef. It was actually comfortable once we decided to leave the wind at our back. Friday, March 26: It took several hours but we dropped anchor at 'Dangerous Reef' in sheltered waters with only a small reef to break the waves. It was great to get some sleep after the hectic time we had. The winds were still very high. Saturday, March 27: The winds suddenly shifted SSW during the night and our 2 boats were getting too close to the reef as they had turned around completely. We both had to leave. Keith had his anchor chain caught on a coral head so we stayed until he could free it. They had planned to go to 'White Rock' anchorage and we tried to go further but the winds again weren't cooperating and we also stopped at 'White Rock'. Monday, March 29: It was very beautiful in a small lagoon just behind 'White Rock' and many various fish swam in the reefs surrounding us. We were beginning to see Egyptian dive boats, the numbers of these boats increasing as we went further north. Once the light was good we motored to Ras Banas, finally, and eventually the winds died down and we could have kept going but instead anchored for the night behind a sandy spit, a lonely outpost with Egyptian soldiers keeping guard. Tuesday, March 30: The weather had calmed so much that we had to motor and again decided to go overnight and make use of the weather. At one point we had planned to go to a new marina called Ghalib to get more fuel but as we passed it was dark and too late. Other boats did stop in and found there was really no marina, and had to pay 30$US for tying up for the night and chance to shower, get something to eat and fill up with diesel. Wednesday, March 31: We were moving along nicely at night and when I came on watch the wind started to go from 10K to 25K in 30 minutes. We weren't going to get caught out again and because Safaga was close we decided to anchor in the harbour. It took us until 03:00 to put down the anchor. It was difficult entering at night. There were many lights and a large ferry came close and passed us as they left the harbour. Although our charts gave us information they didn't all agree. Leading lights were not where they were indicated and the buoys marking a channel didn't show up on our electronic chart. We were glad to find a very quiet place and get to sleep. Now we were very close to Hughada and Abu Tig Marina our destination for 3 weeks and some inland sightseeing.
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Hurghada to Suez Canal We left Safaga for Hughada passing many new resorts and their numerous dive boats. Hughada was a very busy diving area and consequently spreading south to more pristine diving in the reefs. We sailed a good part of the way since we had favourable winds. After entering Hurghada harbour we saw 'Sliver', a French/Canadian couple who had been in many anchorages with us. We were suppose to contact the agent from 'Fantasea' and meet him at the dock. After we had tied up there was no agent although we had given him an hour's notice. Al, most anxious to anchor decided to do all the paperwork himself with help from the nearby police at the port. In spite of that he still had to pay 'Fantasea' 125$US. This was Egypt. Sliver was anchored nearby which gave us the best location for depth as most of the harbour was 20 meters or more. Fortunately there was little wind that night and in the morning we had a beautiful ride through the reefs and into Abu Tig marina 17 miles north. An osprey's nest with the two adults guarding their young was sitting on the green light marking the entrance to the marina . A great greeting! Abu Tig was like a holiday resort. And all of us there would plan to stay as long as we could to get all the salt and red sand off our boat which had accumulated over several months, wash our stiff salt encrusted lines, visit the famous sites and just veg out at the many restaurants and cafes. The cost for 15 days (150 $US) was the same for 1 month so many people would stay that long, or leave their boat to go home like the European cruisers were doing, why not? It was a very safe and secure marina. Free Radical and ourselves decided to do a tour on our own instead of the more expensive trips arranged by various travel companies. Although we found ourselves often waiting for the buses and the train to take us to Luxor, Cairo, and back, the cost was minimal. Our hotels, budget class, were in the range of 10-15$US per night, clean and with ensuite bath compared to the 100-200 $US first class hotels. Our only expense was for the guide to show us around the Valley of the Kings and the Temple of Karnak which took a full day. As he had transport, took us for lunch at his mother's house and arranged our transport to Cairo, we felt we had our money's worth and plus. Since it was the Easter holiday the tourist sites were very crowded but that didn't take away from the wonder of the places. Here was 4000 years ago of history and culture well before the beginnings of Christianity and western culture as we know it. After 2 nights in Luxor we decided to take the day train to Cairo. It was very comfortable even in 2nd class (first was full) and the ride down the Nile valley most interesting. The people looked to be doing their work the same way as their ancestors hundreds of year's ago. We could see donkeys still being used for pulling carts and other jobs, hand labour in the fields such as plowing and sowing and the river a constant source for washing, transportation and irrigation. The train ride gave us a good view of daily life in the Nile valley. We were met in Cairo by arrangement with another guide who took us to a nearby hotel and would be showing us the pyramids and the Museum the next day. On returning to Cairo we then went to the relatively small Museum that held the wonders of the ancient world. Most of the precious items from the Valley of the Kings etc. that weren't robbed lay in this museum in antiquated display cases with very small descriptions that were very hard to see. Hence, a guide was important for this visit. After another night in Cairo we took a bus back to Hurghada the next morning following the Red Sea south which reminded us that we had to make our way back again by boat to Port Suez and the canal. On our return there were a couple of days of calm weather followed by high winds. We waited until the Sunday, April 18th, to head up to Suez 180 miles north. It's possible to do it in a day and a half but going at night is difficult with the numerous oil wells just off the shipping lanes and the large ships constantly heading north and south. Our older eyes aren't as good at night so we planned to day hop up to Suez. We made 3 stops leaving very early each morning but on the last day when we were 10 miles from our goal the wind came up on the nose to 30 knots. that means we had to motor hard doing tacks just to make headway against the high choppy waves. We had to call the Felix agency who told us to come in to the marina which was a run down building with mooring balls that you tied up to bow and stern. We fitted ourselves between 2 large ships going north as the yacht club is just off the canal. A pilot boat yelled at us thinking we were joining the big fleet but soon realized we were veering off. Suez Canal The canal is really one large ditch, three lakes and sometimes a narrow channel. All along the sides you see soldiers evenly spaced with their weapons ready. As well, there are evenly spaced sentry stations giving more security. We were surprised to see ferries going across the canal, pontoon bridges that swing and one large new bridge which few people use because it's a toll bridge. The history of the canal covers many conflicts due to its strategic position. It was opened in 1869 with 75% supported by the British who had military control until 1953. When the canal was nationalized by the Egyptian government in 1956 it prompted the Suez Crisis closing the canal for almost a year. Again in 1967 it was closed for nearly 8 years because of the Arab-Israel conflict and caused an oil shortage in Europe because 70% of all the ships at that time were oil tankers. When we were going through we saw many kinds of ships especially the large containers. The revenue from the canal is a vital source for Egypt. No wonder it is thoroughly guarded. We had to make an overnight stop in Ismalia and take on another pilot for the second day. Our first pilot was fine except at the end he asked for more baksheesh to cover his taxi back to Suez although we were sure he had his passage covered. He didn't ask for the usual cigarettes. The second pilot was an older surly man who didn't seem pleased with anything. He asked for cigarettes and matches and didn't like my chili lunch and threw it overboard. Al said he could have more cigarettes as long as the pilot boat picking him up didn't ram us as we had heard that could happen. Once we dropped Mohammad at Port Said we continued on to Turkey 315 miles away to Finike marina where we would secure the boat and head back to Canada for a visit.
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Turkey - inland trip to Cappadocia Tuesday, April 27, 2004: At 17:30 we were 15 nm from Finike, Turkey. It had been over 20K all day with 3-4 meter seas. We motorsailed into the wind all day to make port before nightfall. Later as we were approaching port a severe thunderstorm came upon us and our visibility was lost. It wasn't easy to find the entrance with the heavy seas, winds and rain but we managed with the GPS and chart plotter on deck. Al called the marina who were suppose to send someone to the entrance and show us in but no one seemed to appear and now it was dark and the lights around were confusing. We called on the VHF again and finally someone came who did a poor job of getting us to a temporary dock for the night. The delay was explained the next day. Apparently there was another boat in the marina called Solarea and the staff, knowing that Solarea was already docked, didn't look for Solara coming in and confused. We were finally put into a berth and secured the next morning. April 28-May 2: We spent the next few days preparing to leave for Canada. I cleaned up the fridge and any fresh food left. Al arranged to have the varnishing done and our dinghy repaired. It took some doing to find a flight home going through Richmond, Virginia to see Al's Mom but we managed a Sunday flight: Antalya/Istanbul/Paris/Atlanta/Richmond/Cincinnati/Toronto. That would get us into Richmond on Tuesday, May 4th. May 4-June 28: We had a needed break. It was important to see Mom Peters who was 97 and much weaker from the last time we saw her 3+ years ago. It was also important to see Carolyn who was now a single parent and have Al meet his latest grandchild for the first time. The 2 months went fast and we were in the throws of a federal election as well. We had good visits with friends and relatives and completed some necessary documents, especially getting new passports. The weather was cold in May plus we both came down with severe colds which left only June to enjoy the outdoors and try not to get too fat on North American food. Al started getting restless soon after arriving and I knew he would have to find more activities when we came back next fall. We were in a flux, being neither in Canada or Turkey on a permanent basis. We seemed to be in each others way even though our condo was much bigger than our boat. There will be much to think about once we finally come home. Anyway, it was time to be back in Turkey the end of June via Richmond to say goodbye to Mom. Entering and leaving North American countries after 9/11 has been completely different and annoying. We were given a hassle, first in entering Canada in May and having our bags further searched. Maybe because our passports were completely full and we had been in Arab countries for the last 4 months. Leaving the US from Atlanta we were once again tagged for a search, maybe because we now had new passports and had a one way ticket to Istanbul. At that time President Bush was also going to Turkey. Can you imagine Al and I looking like terrorists? Sunday, July 4: We gave ourselves a couple of days in Antalya to recuperate from the trip, see the sights, and find transportation back to Finike which turned out to be a crowded 'dolmus', or public bus. Our boat was still there and looking good. We met a cruising couple in Antalya who were staying in Finike and knew of us from the Red Sea trip. They were busing their way around the various sites and we arranged to see them once they returned to Finike. That was the first time we had seen anyone from our Red Sea trip. We are mainly surrounded by European cruisers who use the Med as their summer playground and leave their boats here for the winter. They don't have all the long passage equipment we have on our boat. Monday, July5-10: Lots to do again. In between work, sweltering in the hot sun, and walking into town I discovered the swimming area just off the rocks where one could cool off in the beautiful clear waters just outside the marina. A platform and ladder had been built to make it easier to enjoy the spot. Sunday-Thursday, July 11-15: While we were waiting to have our anchor chain galvanized we decided to rent a cheap car and drive inland to discover Cappadocia and its underground cities. This is a must for any tourist coming to Turkey. The large area of 20,000 km was developed by wind and water erosion after a volcano had erupted and cast out its special lava and finally cooled. This lava was porous and vulnerable to these effects and thus became historically important starting 9-10 thousand years ago as home to varieties of peoples. Firstly the Hittites, then the Phrygians, the Medes, the Persians in the 6thc BC under Alexander the Great, the Romans, the early Christians and then the Byzantine Empire which rapidly helped this Christian expansion until the 13c AD. Later came the Seljuks and the Ottomans. After the independence of Turkey in 1923 Christian development ended when the Greeks lost the territory they had taken after WW1. Before we arrived in the Cappadocia valley we stopped at Sultanhani to see the largest caravanserai in Turkey. This caravanserai was used in the 13th century for the large caravans on the trading routes (Silk Road) where the traders could rest and recuperate, much like a motel. There was usually a caravanserai every 40 miles or so. Cappadocia: The underground cities were a place of shelter from enemies and secret places of worship. In times of peace the people lived and farmed above ground but when threatened they could live underground (up to 9 levels) for up to 6 months. Taking a tour in an underground city is like moving through an ant colony. All matters of living were taken care of. Such as: air vents for breathing, wine making, cooking, stables for animals and deep water wells. Booby traps were set up and large boulders could close off a passage. Tens of thousands of people could live in this way. We stayed in Goreme for 2 nights and I took the tour taking to these underground cities and visiting various old churches in caves with their beautiful frescoes. Our tour also took us to Ihlara valley which was a deep gorge surrounded by high cliffs with small churches built into the cliffs. Driving to and from this very interesting area was also a discovery of the real Turkey such as Konya, a strict muslim city ,home of the whirling dervishes. We also saw large wheat fields and the farming of such which reminded us of our childhood experiences on the farm collecting the wheat. We saw the threshing machine and the men throwing the hay onto the wagon. Everyone in the family were involved with the harvesting. As we left to go back Al decided to take a backroad which turned out to be a backbackroad up into the Taurus mountains. I found it very scary looking down 5000' into a valley with no side rails and at times the road had given way by erosion. There were no others except some sheep and ourselves on this long day drive. At times the pavement had gone and we were left with gravel and stones. Al thought the experience was exciting. We did see some very tiny villages where the women were carrying bundles of grass to dry on the roof of their simple stone cottages. After an exhausting day we came to Ermenek, a larger town situated on a 'red road' going east and west and a crossroads where we needed to change direction. The place wasn't mentioned in our Lonely Planet book and we couldn't see any hotels. The town was built on a steep slope in the mountains and it would take several more hours to reach Alanya on the coast. I finally said I would go to the police station which we'd passed on our way in to town. The two young men were very friendly and motioned that we should follow them in their police car. In the meantime Al was chatting up a young girl who was trying to explain where the one hotel was located. Down we went to a lower road and found ourselves in front of a vast new hotel overlooking a beautiful valley and a large swimming pool sitting in its glory with no one near by. The price was right ($50 US) at the time and I think we were the first to occupy the room. At this point I would have taken anything after our long day but this was a unexpected treat. No one spoke English and we concluded that the group of men we found in the morning were on a business conference and the hotel wasn't built for tourists. Who would have found it anyway? Nevertheless the room was spendid as well as the bathroom and best of all a comforable bed as well as a great view. I could have stayed another day. Oh well! Our drive down to the coast was slow through the mountains. Definitely not a red road as the map had us believe. We arrived at the tourist packed town of Alanya. The beauty of the coast was spoiled by hordes of skimpy clad, often obese English or otherwise sunseekers. There were hundreds of hotels many blocks deep and of course the same number of restaurants and bars. I wonder if the Romans would have had a good time in present day Alanya. There are many ancient ruins all along the coast that the tourists could visit when they have had too much sun. We passed through quickly but regretted our missing Side which would have been a pleasurable side trip (excuse the pun) to see the most spectacular 'theatre' with its 15,000 seats and still used today. Our goal was to get back to Finike before dark and plan the next part of our cruise west.
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Turkey- Finike to Marmaris: After being sure that our boat was ready we left Finike early in the morning for our first anchorage at Kekova Roads only 20nm away. The anchor chain had been reattached all shiny and bright and we had installed a gangplank to use in the Med having stored our self-steering windvane until next year when we cross the Atlantic. Knowing that we would Med moor, that is, backing stern to in every port, we needed some way to get off the boat. Kekova Roads was an island protecting a large bay and there were several places to anchor. We dropped the hook before lunch in 4m and enjoyed the beauty of the area near the town of Ucagiz. We saw a good number of boats where we dropped the hook and it was also possible to call a restaurant on VHF to come and take you to their nearby place. The bay called Ucagiz Limani was also protected by a cape topped by the ruins of Kalekoy castle which you could visit and get a wonderful view of the Byzantine sunken city off the island of Kerkova Adasi. We sailed close to the ruins still sprouting old walls and steps up the steep slope of its original location. No one was allowed to dive near the site as it is protected. It was good to start moving again, although motoring, and get away from the Finike dust and heat of the marina. Sunday, July 18: We left at 06:00 again to avoid any afternoon high winds and made a run for Kalkan 20-30 nm away. We had to motor though as it was only 2-3 knots from the NW but better than fighting head winds. We found a shelter in Yesilkoy Limani where many gulets and yachts were tied stern-to to the shore. After a bit of manoevering and help from a Swiss neighbour we got settled with the anchor in 15m and a line to shore. We could have just anchored after all the trouble we had. This was the beginning of the motor problems we were having with the dinghy engine and also the dinghy was continuing to lose air from some leak we couldn't find. The bay became quieter and more pleasant once the noisy gulet crowd sailed away. Monday, July 19: Once again we slipped away early (06:30) to Fethiye and its busy harbour and tourist activity to buy some provisions. We stayed overnight at Batikkaya Buku a few minutes away from the town harbour surrounded by other gulets and their tourists. It was a nice quiet place with a small beach and a picnic area used by the locals. Tuesday, July 20: In the morning we motored to the anchorage off Fethiye and had to dinghy to an unsatisfactory spot, tying up but scrambling over rocks to the road going in to town. We saw the French boat, 'Karimba' which came up the Red Sea with us. They were staying awhile probably because anchoring is free and they sail on a shoestring budget. Thursday, July 22: We left Buynuz Buku early as usual to round a few capes before the afternoon winds. As it were the winds came up to force 5 (18-21K) and we could sail into Ekincik where there was a pretty anchorage SE of the town just under a fancy restaurant call 'My Marina' with a lovely view. There was a picture of Dustin Hoffman and Carolyn Kennedy who had also been there. Just as we were preparing to drop the anchor a couple of guys from the restaurant took our stern line and tied it to a rock. We are beginning to understand the process especially with help. Leave lots of scope, back up quickly and close to shore then bring the anchor in to tighten. Now you are secure. The trip was beautiful through a large river edged on both sides with long swaying grasses. The river had been silted up after the Mediterranean Sea retreated from where it once had surrounded the ancient city. The city was founded around the 9th c BC and became an important Carian city by 400BC. Its tombs high on the hill are in the Lycia style whose culture the Carians took as well, being right on their border. As the sea receded and malaria killed the inhabitants, Caunos lost its importance and slowly faded away. The ruins aren't as spectacular as Ephesus or Pergamon but one sees a small 2nd C amphitheater, a temple to Apollo, a Roman bath and a byzantine church all built at different times, and often on top of each other. There were also city walls for protection and a medieval fort on top of the steepest hill overlooking the whole valley. It was interesting to visit the city and walk around the ruins especially before the tourists groups arrived. Al decided to climb the steep hill for the lookout and I wandered around the ruins imagining how people lived there so long ago. Before heading back to the boat our driver went further up the river to Dalyan, a tourist center full of river boats to take their load of people to Caunos. After a walk through town and a chance to take pictures of the rock tombs high on the cliff we started back to the open water again. On the way we passed the beautiful sandy beach of Iztuzu, world famous for the loggerhead turtle nesting site. During the day the tourists sunbath in a given area. At night the female turtles lay their eggs from May to September. Rules have been laid out to protect this hatching and a hotel proposed here was abandoned due to many protests. The loggerhead is large but the leatherbacks we saw in Trinidad are much larger, up to 900lb. Saturday, July 24: We left Ekincek for Marmaris early and had a good sail across to Marmaris arriving before lunch. We have been here for a week and getting things done such as a main sail repair (the last time possible before buying a new sail), buying a new dinghy and motor, and the usual stuff like polishing all our metal. Marmaris is very touristy and so are the prices. I try to grocery shop in the local stores but anything imported from Europe is too expensive due to taxes. I priced a small bottle of Canadian maple syrup for 31,000,000 TL which is about 31$ Cnd , can you imagine! No pancakes for us as no other syrup was available. You can find a cheaper restaurant away from the waterfront and if you choose a Turkish item. Most of the tourists use EU or English pounds and they get much more for their money. We were here about 10 years ago chartering a boat and the chartering business was just growing. Now, it's overwhelming and many boats sit idle due to the increase of charter companies. Also, the number of gulets are more than the number of tourists renting. It either means less tourists or no control in the business growth. We were told that the tourists who come to Marmaris don't have or wish to spend money so you see many stores without customers. Even so the place hops at night being high season and 2 nine story cruise ships came in this week tying up just behind us and spilling out their oily fumes and blocking our breeze. Good for business though with 2000 passengers arriving for the day. We'll leave here in a couple of days and back to nice anchorages where we can again swim off the boat to cool off. Our passage up to Kusadasi should take us a week or more especially when the meltemi blows and keeps us anchored in place. |
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Turkey - Marmaris to Kusadasi After leaving Marmaris we had good winds for a short while due to land breezes in the bay but that didn't last long. Our plan was to move SW along the barren peninsula once supporting sizable towns now dotted with ancient and medieval ruins. Near the end of the peninsula was an anchorage that we had, with Carolyn, many years ago spent a quiet night. This time the winds were blowing hard and we had few choices to make. Several restaurants dotted the shoreline with their own buoys to entice the yachts to tie up and eat at their place. As the wind blew down the bay the small buoy looked more inviting than our anchor although we were swinging quite freely and weren't too sure of the buoy's strength. As evening approached the young girl from the restaurant came over and suggested we tie up at their wharf to be more secure. Was this their way to get us to eat there or more concern for our safety? In any event we tied up next to a nice small English boat waiting for better weather but we had already planned our meal before this new arrangement. We did buy a beer to make them feel better but they seemed very disappointed. There is no set rule for a boat to feel obligated. After a good night at Bozuk Buku we woke up to high winds and almost decided to stay another day but the winds soon died down and we left at 07:00 instead of 06:00 as usual. Our next anchorage was on the Datca peninsula jutting out into the Aegean close to Greece. The winds weren't as strong as predicted but we reached Kuruca Buku early afternoon. There was a holiday village there, an enclosed swimming area and lots of beach holidayers, mostly Turkish. As we were relaxing on the boat who should come along but Klondike one of the victims of pirate attacks in the Gulf of Aden. We had seen them briefly in Eygpt but they didn't get to Turkey until June. We had a good visit but our beer supply wasn't very good for a long party. The next day they wanted to continue north to Bodrum and we decided on Knidos, an old ancient city harbour, and one of the major cities of the Dorian Confederacy. The city of Knidos was famous for the first naked statue of a woman which was sculpted in the 4thC BC. This famous statue of Aphrodites brought many visitors to Knidos. It was also believed to bring good fortune to seafarers who had to stop there for protection. We were fortunate to find a spot to anchor in this small harbour full of gulets and yachts. The winds were light so we had good holding and little swinging. Klondike had been there before and had to leave with several other boats in the middle of the night because of dragging. Knidos also attracts visitors to see the solitary ruins scattered about which are only partly excavated but one can pick out the two theatres, the temples, the city walls and gates. It had been a large city with a once famous inhabitant, Eudoxos, an astronomer and mathematician who built an observatory at Knidos. Friday, August 5 We sailed toward Bodrum planning to stop just west away from the sight and sounds of that busy tourist harbour. There was a small bay called Aspat Koyu which we reached in the early afternoon. The north part was suppose to be quiet but a small holiday village had opened up plus a busy wind surfing establishment. We were surrounded by experienced and beginning windsurfers all afternoon but we enjoyed their struggles. I suggested to Al that he try his hand again at the sport, but no dice. Saturday, August 6 Leaving Aspat Koyu our plan was to head around the Bodrum peninsula to Torba which would put us only a few km north of Bodrum and a short bus trip away for provisioning. As we passed the peninsula we were very close to the Greek island of Kos plus we saw ugly, stacking apartments and hotels covering the coastline of the peninsula. One book described them as piles of lego blocks. Development has gone way out of control in Turkey, at least in certain areas. The whole peninsula appeared to be suffering from overdevelopment and an abundance of gulets and chartering yachts but in the busy season it brings income to the people. Instead of heading inland across Gulluk Korfezi to Torba we sailed straight north to a small town called Altinkum which was a good sheltered bay but with wall to wall British tourists. It was impossible to see the beach for bodies and the beautiful sandy-bottomed bay was filled with bobbing heads. We took the new dinghy in and tied it up with the numerous fishing boats. The town seemed to cater to English tourists on the cheap offering 'full English breakfast' and the TV time for the next important football match. We found a good little market with fresh fruit, enjoyed a typical Turkish meal and headed back to the boat to sail away from the inevitable noisy bar music expected that night. Our evening and night was spent in a small, very quiet bay, called Cukurcuk. There was a fish farm at one end but we had room by ourselves in shallow (2-3m) waters with good holding. Some swell during the night. Sunday, August 7 We left Cukurcuk early and motored up to Port St. Nicola before entering the Strait of Samos, also called Sisam Bogazi between Greece and Turkey, and on to Kusadasi. Our plan was to anchor in a small bay called Port St Nikolas but trying to dig in was unsuccessful and Al pulled up an old fishing net and later a chain trying to anchor. We then went to the next harbour called Port St Paul where St Paul was suppose to have anchored there on his way up the Anatolian coast. We left at our usual early time and were delighted at the spectacular sunrise peaking through the high mountains of Can Dagi off Tavsan Adasi (island) which we had to round in order to reach the channel between Turkey and Samos, Greece where the two countries came the closest (1M). The winds of 20+ knots weakened as we got the protection of Samos off our port. The strait was quiet that time of the day and our sail toward Kusadasi was one of our best in a long time. To top that off we had a wonderful school of dolphins jumping around our boat for half an hour and as I looked down from the bow sprint it seemed they were observing me as well and having a great time keeping away from the bow. We entered Kusadasi marina before noon and tied up to the dock for 3 weeks while planning to go inland for some sightseeing. The marina had, friendly staff, so so showers, a swimming pool, nearby supermarket and within walking distance to town. Kusadasi is on the cruise boat circuit and therefore full of aggressive shopkeepers, expensive restaurants and money seeking individuals. That didn't suit us but the town had a lovely waterfront walk and beautiful sunsets. August 9-23, Turkey - Inland trip Our inland trip by rental car covered the west coast of Turkey to the Dardenelles. We visited Ephesus earlier, one of the greatest ruined cities in the western world built in 1000 BC and later becoming the chief port on the Aegean under Roman rule. The surviving structures are magnificent to walk through. Ephesus played an important role in the spread of Christianity before 500 AD. On our inland tour later we saw more sites such as Pergamum, Troy, Sardis and Aphrodisias plus a few other piles of rock. One always saw in these old cities a large theatre, temple ruins and gateways. Always spectacular, always intriguing. Makes one want to read more about the Romans. We tried to stay away from tourist hotels and towns and found the occasional B&B. Our trip to the Gallipoli peninsula included taking our car on the ferry from Canakkale and driving for the day to visit the various monuments and battle grounds. Anzac cove where 8,000 soldiers (Anzac and Turk) lost their lives in one day was sad to see. It was a terrible battle lasting 9 months and 500,000 casualties (dead and wounded) and finally seeing the Allied troups withdrawing and losing any chance of controlling the Dardenelles Strait. On Anzac Day, April 25, there are many Australians and New Zealanders visiting the memorials and in their own countries that day is commemerated every year. From there we headed back to Kusadasi making a stop in the crazy travertine terraces of Pamukkale. Here, thousands of tourists walk up to the top of the cliff on bare feet and over pools of warm water coming from the mineral springs rich in calcium. The Romans built a large spa city above the pools, called Hierapolis. The tourists have almost ruined the site and the water flow has slowed considerably. We stayed the night in a small B&B and witnessed a lively wedding party in the village of Pamukkale. Thursday, August 26 After another week in the marina we'd had enough of that and stocked up on cheaper Turkish food, filled our diesel tanks, our water tanks and headed to Samos, Greece to enter the EU. Our motor oil had been changed and the boat washed and stainless steel cleaned. The boat was ready to go.
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Greece to Italy Our first stop was Pithagorian, Samos Island in Greece. It was a busy but attractive harbour but since it was also August the tourist crowds filled the place with rented scooters, cars, and bus loads of visitors from the island's north harbour. We anchored next to the main harbour and easily dinghied in. Right away one noticed the cleanliness of the town with its glistening white buildings and blue trim. It was geared for tourists with the inevitable waterside tavernas and souvenir shops but we enjoyed the short walk around the narrow streets. It was here we had the formalities of entering the EU. There was an entry fee charged by Greece which gave us 6 months to cruise in their waters plus the beginning of the 18 months we would be able to leave our non EU boat in EU waters. Saturday, August 28 After some provisioning with tasty EU food not available in Turkey we tried to make some westerly direction toward the other side of the Aegean Sea and through the Cyclades Islands. Once out from the shelter of Samos harbour we caught the high wind and seas trying to make a small group of islands just SW of Samos. This weather pattern seemed
prevalent through most of our western headings in the Aegean for the next 2 weeks. Sunday-Monday, August 29-30 We were the only boat anchored outside the main harbour but were comfortably sheltered by breakwaters on all sides. The wind gusted down from the high mountains nearby but we were firmly anchored in spite of frequently turning around the anchor. Monday, later By 16:00 the wind appeared quiet enough to find an anchorage 20 miles away in Furni island. We'd had enough of Marathakambos and wanted a head start to Mykonos which would be a long sail the next day. On the way and after the shelter of Samos, of course the winds picked up again gusting to 33K. Before we arrived at the small anchorage on the SW corner of North Fournoi I looked back to the stern and saw only a dangling rope where our dinghy should have been. We'd lost our new dinghy! The ring holding our towing rope had come away. Tuesday, August 31 We left the anchorage early morning in the dark (04:00) and headed toward Mykonos. We were in touch with another boat we knew at an anchorage called Ormos, 2 km from the town of Mykonos. If we needed to go on shore we felt they would offer a ride. Although crowded there was room to anchor amongst the many boats and there was Klondike (see Gulf of Aden) nearby. That night we went in to the beach together for some provisioning and dinner. We hadn't got use to the stores closing all afternoon as yet and then opening again from 5-8 or 9. Dinner time was much later than our usual 6-7 pm. Most tourists made an appearance after 5pm. Even though this harbour was away from Mykonos town the restaurant put on a sophisticated air that we weren't used to plus the 1 euro cover charge for each person that seemed common in Greek restaurants. The town of Mykonos is famous as a tourist town, attractively but completely covered by a white cluster of cubes around a crescent harbour. It attracts the jet and yacht set, backpackers, artists, nudists and gays. But not for us the wee hours of the night life. Even in our anchorage the bare hills were slowly being covered by expensive looking homes jutting out from the rocks. Wednesday, September 1 Since we had no dinghy we felt that we should find a harbour that we could tie up and perhaps buy another tender. Consequently we left Mykonos in the morning for Siros or Syros depending on what book you read. We passed by ancient Delos on the way which couldn't be visited by private yacht. Many tour boats took groups to this uninhabited island where in mythology the twin gods Apollo and Artemis were born. The entire island is an archaeological site and had been the political and religious center of the ancient world and thought to be the last and best anchorage between Europe and Asia. Not in this century though and we had to pass by. It was a very pleasant sail to Siros with much calmer seas as we entered the port of Finikas on the SW side of Siros. It was well protected from the prevailing north winds and we could pick up a mooring on the new pier and connect to electricity for only 5 euros per day. It was a good place to find a new dinghy and wait out the bad weather which was predicted to arrive. Thursday, September 2-Wednesday, September 8 It was a 30" bus ride into Ermoupolis on the other side of the island giving us a good sightseeing ride of the interior and its farm fields and orchards of olives, and citrus fruits rather than the barren perimeter of the island. Ermoupolis named after Hermes is a pretty city and the capital of the Cyclades. It is paved with marble and its 18th C main square is surrounded by impressive public buildings such as an Opera house and a large city hall. One can climb 900 steps to one or the other churches situated on two high hills above the city. One is Catholic because of the earlier Italian influence and the other Greek Orthodox and we visited them both. The city is full of Italian designed neoclassical mansions due to its being the greatest trading center in Greece until Peraeus near Athens. Unfortunately it was here I lost my good digital camera but most of my pictures had been put on the computer. Finally we had our new dinghy and the weather reports predicted the winds to lighten. Wednesday, September 8 Our destination was a short sail to Kithnos. But once out of Finikas harbour there were winds of 20-29 Knots with 2 meter seas or more left over from the meltemi. It was a wet ride. After rounding the south point of Kithnos we headed for a quiet anchorage on the west side called Omos Apokriosis, a beautiful quiet bay and well protected from the meltemi. I could have stayed here a few days. Thursday, September 9 Today we wanted to get away from the Aegean and closer to the Gulf of Corinth. We then left at 05:30 easily from the anchorage in the dark to make the 50 miles to the Saronic Gulf but not sure where we would end for the evening. To go north we would be closer to Athens and to stay south we'd miss Athens but make the Corinth canal sooner plus it's much cleaner. The winds were good for sailing 15-25 K but with rough seas. It was Al's kind of day. A few miles along Poros Bay we anchored at Russian Bay amongst many other boats and had a cool dip in the clean water not to be found near Athens. Also it was good to get away from the windy Aegean. Friday, September 10 When we left Russian Bay in the morning it seemed too far to make the Corinth canal but the winds were good and we made good time and reached it midafternoon. Corinth canal - Using the canal saves 150 miles between the Ionian Sea and Athens and of course there is a cost depending on one's size. There is an ancient history of the isthmus where ships were transported across on rollers on a road called the diolkos controlled by the town of Corinth which prospered up to the end of Roman rule by the charges levied. Control of the Gulf passed through successive invaders such as the Normans, the Turks, the Knights of Malta, the Venetians, the Turks again and finally the Greeks who finished the canal in 1893 that was started by a French company. Nero was the only one before that who attempted to dig using 6000 slaves before being diverted from the task. Approaching the canal on the eastern side we tied up to the quay after contacting the canal zone authorities on our VHF. Al hurried in to pay our fee and fill out paperwork. A large tour boat called "Touristcanal" was taking a group of visitors through and Al was told that if he hurried we could follow behind. Because of that we got away quickly. Once through the eastbound vessels would then have their turn. The canal is only 3.2 miles long and 81' wide and is carved out of limestone which at its highest is 250'. There are 2 bridges which are lowered into the water and traffic must wait for you to pass through. There is also a high rail trestle bridge. We took less than an hour to reach the other side and the tour boat was seen just ahead and turning around to go back with its happy waving passengers. It was getting late and we thought of finding an anchorage. We had hoped to anchor at a group of islands some distance away but it was too far and we ended up by an open roadstead spot mentioned in our pilot book but with no sketch or depth indicated. Nevertheless we found the place well protected from the North winds that were gusting down from the inland mountains. No one was on shore and we had a very quiet night. Saturday, September 11 We were able to leave easily in the half light of early morning for Galaxidhi, a good spot for visiting Delphi, an hour away by bus. The scenery around the Gulf of Corinth was very beautiful with its mountainous terrain on the north coast and Peloponnisos far on the south coast. We also had good sailing winds. The dolphins were active that day and followed along with us into the bay. Galaxidhi was halfway up a bay called Krissaios Kolpos with the harbour town of Itea at the north end. The winds and waves became much quieter in the bay although enough to keep the sails up but offering more difficulty when it was time to back into the dock and tie up stern to. It was important to use the pilot guide's clear instructions for entering the harbour as there were fringing reefs and rocks on the approach. As Al had to drop the anchor beforehand it was up to me to back in to the wharf. As it was the first time I was nervous but with some instruction about letting the wind help turn us in the right direction toward the dock I must say the job was perfect and impressed the people on the dock waiting to take our lines. It was a picturesque small town with many Greek tourists from Athens enjoying the quiet atmosphere. In the 18th and 19th C it was a prosperous port until the Turks occupied the area . Before the construction of the main road Galaxidhi was reached by ferry from Itea. Galaxidhi is now a well-preserved ghost town with charming houses, some with painted ceilings and impressive views. Of course we found a bakery and mini market for the next leg of our trip. Sunday, September 12 We took a morning bus to Delphi which wound its way up the high mountain of Parnassos on its way to Athens and stopping at the touristy town of Delphi and from there one can walked to the old Delphi. The height makes it a most spectacular site but to our taste it is nothing compared to Ephesus in Turkey for grandeur. Nevertheless there were many tour buses even in September. Delphi was regarded as the center of the ancient world and sits amidst ravines, rocky bluffs and sheer cliffs. Apollo, Dionysus and Athena were also associated with Delphi. The Delphic oracle beginning in the late Bronze age and diminishing during the Romans was famous throughout Greece. Many important decisions were made and the fates of men and cities were decided here. The Oracle played a leading part in promoting culture and current philosophical speculation about (hu)man's quests and endeavors. We got back at the end of the day just marveling from our day away from the sea and into the clouds. Mt Parnassos could be seen from our small harbour and we could imagine the city in its glory and wonder how the people in those days built such a monument to superstition, magic and serious prophesying. Monday, September 13 How should we leave Greece? We thought of several ways. Before arriving at Patras we had to pass under a large new bridge which was now completed recently but we had to check with the bridge authority who would tell us which channel to take going under so as not to interfere with large ships. We tied up in the yacht harbour at Patras and planned to leave the next day. For 40 euros we didn't get much service. It was difficult to find the showers and toilets. Eventually they were found in a small corner off a large stage and amphitheatre which never seemed used. At least there was hot water. A laundry man came around and I could give him my collection of dirty clothes. Without going in to the city center I found one small store and could provision for a few days. |
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Ionian Sea, and Tyrrhenian Sea to Rome We left Patras at noon knowing we had a few days passage across the Ionian Sea to Italy. It was a quiet passage with no winds, so unfortunately we had to motor. The weather was about to change and instead of going directly to Messina on the NE tip of Sicily we decided to stop off at Roccella Ionica, a new unfinished marina on the toe of Italy. Thursday, September 16-21 We slipped around the growing sand spit at the entrance to the marina. There were a number of boats on the docks from many different European countries Swiss, German, Portuguese and Italian to name a few. The crews were busy doing boat work and sharing a common water tap. Since there were no facilities as yet there was no charge for a few days, hence the boats hung around as long as possible. As well we had floating pontoons and didn't have to go stern or bow to, a real plus. It was a long pleasant walk into Roccelle 3 km away using a beach front architecturally planned side walk and bicycle path. Once in town there were a number of produce markets, meat store, bakeries, and delis to satify our needs. It would have been nice to have a bike but the walk was good for us. Above the town was a large old ruin of a castle which held a museum. Al tried to check in to Italy but any official looking uniforms couldn't care less. So he gave up. The calm weather changed to heavy thunder showers and the high winds kept us here for a few days. One boat tried to leave and turned back because of the high waves. We were with a friendly group sharing our sailing experiences but no one we met had come up from the Red Sea like ourselves. Tuesday, September 21 We finally left Roccelle in the afternoon planning to go overnight and arriving at the Messina channel in the daylight. We had some good sailing wind just off the bow but we motor sailed to the SE tip of Italy called Capo Spartivento experiencing occasional strong gusts coming from the mountainous mainland. It got dark early and we had to watch out for the numerous fishing boats which weren't well lit. In fact Al almost hit one small boat that wasn't lit, stopped the motor and made a 90 degree turn away from the scared bewildered man. Luckily all the gusts came on Al's watch when he had to make sail changes. As we entered the Messina Strait it was still dark and we were both up and alert for all the large boat traffic arriving from all directions. The most confusing and numerous were the ferries, though brightly lit, seemed to be crossing constantly across the channel and THEY DON'T CHANGE DIRECTION FOR ANYONE. As we neared the narrowest end between Sicily and Italy these ferries increased in number and when we felt that there was enough gap to avoid them another would leaving one side or the other across our path. As we approached the Strait of Messina which is only 1.5 miles across we thought of warnings given in the Italian Pilot book regarding tidal streams and whirlpools plus high squalls blowing off the mountains on both sides. It was daylight now and our first plan was to go to Messina if the weather turned bad but since it proved to be a good day we decided to continue through and stop further along the west coast of Calabria. In the Odyssey, Odysseus encountered the 2 perils, Scilla and Charybdis, in the Messina Strait and obviously in antiquity small boats were often in peril being subject to the tides and whirlpools they couldn't control. With all this in mind we started into the 8 mile strait with no problems, no winds, and once only the boat was violently shoved by the water off our course which, because of our motor, Al could straighten the boat again. Scilla, the 12' monster with 6 long necks and horrible heads, and Charybdis, the giant whirlpool were conquered by Solara. Wednesday, September 22 We had to motor to Tropea coming around Cape Vaticano and into the Gulf di S. Eufemia. The high mountains on the coast were beautiful and the towns seemed to hang over the water where people were enjoying the day on the beach after climbing down many steps to reach sea level. Entering the marina at Tropea was easy and some boaters we'd met in Roccelle were there plus a number of German, American and others who were planning to keep their boats in Tropea for the winter. Wednesday, September 22-Thursday, September 30 We enjoyed Tropea very much even though there was a 200 step staircase to reach the top. It was very much a tourist town and the products of Calabria sold in every store , such as special bottles of sauce and oils, spices and local wines and cheeses. We made the climb every day and sometimes twice. The marina seemed well protected with water and electricity although our power seemed to go off everyday and Al would have to go back to the office to have it reconnected. The weather turned nasty and the waves outside flew high over the breakwater and no one planned to leave especially ourselves. Instead we took a train trip to Sicily to visit Mt Etna. Mt Etna Trip We had to catch a train in town by 6 am and because of a long walk uphill it meant a much earlier morning. The train actually went on one of the large ferries we had to avoid a few days earlier. The train was split into 3 parts and went in the lowest level of the ferry, crossed the channel and reassembled again in Messina. Not long after noon we arrived in Catania to get information for Mt Etna. A backpacker near the station suggested we should go to a small town half way up the mountain and see Mt Etna the next day by the local bus. The local bus was late and while we stood on the square of Nicolosi waiting, many tour buses passed us coming up from Catania. Finally it arrived and the bus drove up a well paved road winding itself up to the top where we would board a cable car and eventually take a dirt vehicle even higher to a walking trail and a guided tour. After our tour it was down again to the main square and where we would catch the bus back to Catania for the night. The weather became cold and rainy but looking up to the top where we had been, the snow began to fall and our rain also became snow. The storm continued that night with sharp bolts of lightning, heavy rains and claps of thunder. We found a small Chinese restaurant nearby and headed for bed. In the morning we had a good walk around Catania and saw some lovely 18C buildings and a few Roman ruins before taking our train back to Tropea. Much of the roadways, sidewalks, and squares appear to be built of lava rock. In 1669 a mile wide stream of lava swallowed most of the city and so it's understandable that the rock is widely available. Thursday, September 30-Saturday, October 2 We left Tropea the day after getting back from Sicily and planned to move overnight as harbours north of Tropea and one day sail away were not the best for anchoring. There were 2 marinas in Salerno and we were told the new one was very expensive but as we were looking around and trying to find our way a man on the dock of Porto Nuova called us over to take a spot he had available. We slipped in with help as it was a tight squeeze, and I asked the hard question "How much?" "Sixty euro for each night and I have only 2 nights available", says he. "Too much", says I, "we'll just leave." After all this discussion we paid 50E a night which is the usual summer rate. It was a good place to see Salerno and a bus to Pompeii so we stayed although the 'marina' as such didn't have much to offer. After a day's search we found the information we needed to take the bus to Pompeii. Salerno is an interesting city apart from Pompeii and became historically known when the Allies landed from seaward in 1943 destroying much of the city. There are many old buildings from an earlier time and has been described as a mini-Naples. In the Middle Ages there was a school of medicine which endured for 1000 years to the 12thC. Pompeii Having read Thomas Harris' book 'Pompeii" I was most interested in seeing for myself how Romans lived in AD79. The town of 20,000 was covered in ash and pumice from Vesuvius killing 2000 people. Frequent eathquakes impeded further reconstruction but excavations started in 1748 and continue to this day. We saw hundreds of streets, foundations of homes, wall mosaics, tiled floors, fountains, remains of temples, bath houses and squares, a ghost town that died one day hundreds of years ago. It was a wonderous trip and a must see for visitors. Sunday, October 3-4 Our next stop was to Capri, a half day's sail or motor away but very close to busy Naples, Sorrento and Salerno by ferry. For two days Al had tried to pay the 100 euro for our slip but was told to wait until leaving. But when we planned to go early Sunday there was no one on the dock so we slipped our lines and proceeded out of the marina. Very shortly we heard a loud shout and there was a fast dinghy catching up to us with the dock man waving and swearing at us. So much for a free slip. Capri is considered the most famous island in Italy and prices are reflected, such as; 150 euro per night in the marina and expensive restaurants. Because of that we anchored outside the marina by the dirty beach and as the weather was calm we sat comfortably for 2 nights along with large power boats and daily cruisers. We took our dinghy into the small harbour as ferries were also arriving. Huge beasts with churning waves 2 meters high. We almost got overturned by 2 ferries coming at once plus other high powered boats leaving. Once our dinghy was secured the island lived up to its reputation. We climbed the stairs to the top not finding the funicular's entrance and enjoyed walking around the twisting pedestrian walkways. The precipitous island was occupied in prehistoric times and later by the Greeks and Romans. Nowadays, the list of famous residents and vistors is impressive. Many villas with secured gates gives a small glimpse of the grandeur one can imagine inside. Tuesday, October 5 We left this anchorage with lots of garbage floating around although the water was so clear we could see 15' to the bottom. Our next stop was Procida part of the Flegree Islands outside the Gulf of Naples and close to the main land. There was a good anchorage on the south coast below the town of Corricella. Here we saw 'Meg' an American boat we had met in Tropea and a Canadian/British boat who introduced themselves. Another staircase took us up to town and across to the north side where there was a marina and tour boats from Naples discharging groups of tourists to see the castle/fort just above us. Wednesday, October 6 After some provisioning on Tuesday we left first thing in the morning for the island of Ventotene 29 miles away. Ventotene is part of a chain of volcanic crater islands called the Pontines. In history Ventotene and Ponza were used as exiled islands for undesirables such as Julia, daughter of Caesar Augustus; Octavia, wife of Nero; and Flavia, grand-daughter of Domitan. The tiny harbour, called Porto Vecchio was an old Roman galley port excavated from the native tufa and the sheds carved out of the rock behind are a marvel in Roman engineering. With little room for manoevering in the old harbour we decided to anchor in the modern harbour in an area where a slip for boats had been built. Perhaps the anchorage was gone because of that, but soon after other yachts appeared and anchored nearby. Ventotene was also used as a penal colony during Mussolini's time and one can still see the prison on nearby S. Stefano Island. Thursday, October 7 We motored to Ponza nearby while weather remained calm. Stormier weather was predicted for the weeend when we hoped to be at our destination. We liked Ponza and found we could also anchor as long as the large ferry could have room to manoever and dock and if the seas outside were calm. The town was layered up the hill from the water as has been the case of most towns since we entered the Tyrrhenian Sea. Being volcanic crests all of these towns were built on high land making each one picturesque and colourful. The rock formations around Ponza are spectacular and the island is very popular in summer. As it was we had the anchorage to ourselves and the town void of tourist crowds. Friday, October 8 Anzio was our last stop before Touristico di Roma, Solara's winter home. The harbour seemed crowded although there was one man on the commercial dock waving us over, but I'm sure for a big fee. An anchorage was noted just east of the harbour but care had to be taken as silting had occured and the depth was only 2-3 meters somewhat below what we liked. Nettuno nearby was very expensive and filled but we went over there a mile or two away to buy some diesel. Finally, we anchored in the shallow bay ready to leave anytime. Anzio nearby was destroyed during WW11 when the Allies attempted to assault Monte Casino and finally took Rome nearly 6 months later in June 4, 1944. British and American military cemeteries are close by. As an added interest Nero was born near Anzio. Saturday, October 9 - 03:00 The wind changed to SE and we were very uncomfortable and rocking to and fro. It was also a concern that being so shallow we could ground. Up went the anchor at 03:00 and we sailed, finally, to Touristico di Roma arriving at 09:30 amongst high breaking waves entering the harbour. The entrance isn't well planned for high windy weather and it is a very dangerous entrance. One can almost ride the waves but of course the motor on your boat must be in full power to steer clear of the rocks on both sides. Touristico di Roma We are both here for a short time and then putting the boat on the hard and going home for the winter. There is always much to do and right now I'm sitting on the boat finishing this last journal for 2004 while the boat above us is stripped of sails, canvas, and our boom which must be replaced. The food is gone and my packing is complete. Al leaves 10 days later and finishes the rest of winter preparations while living in Ostia nearby. We're both anxious to see our family in Canada and have Christmas at home for the first time in 4 years. We must leave here with temperatures at 23C for the 11C in Toronto, not so easy. The journal will begin next May as we are back here and preparing for our crossing to North America via Sardinia, Spain, Gibraltar, and the Canaries and hopefully the end of our circumnavigation. |